'Welcome to the machine' M9 onsighted by Mauro Bubu Bole

Some ice climbing news, if this can still be defined as such.

In mid-December the Italian Mauro "Bubu" Bole and the Slovenian Erik Svab paid a short visit to the Italian Valle d'Aosta to try some of Stevie HastonÕs hard mixed routes. In Valsavaranche Bubu racked up a seriously impressive list of ascents including Welcome to the Machine; this is probably the first M9 onsight in the world. Shortly afterwards his partner Erik Svab flashed the route.

Bubu continued in the same vein repeating 009 M9, on his second attempt, and adding his own Never say Never M8+ through the same overhangs. These routes have some insitu pegs but also require ice screws for protection.

They then moved to nearby Cogne where Bubu still had a bone to pick with X Files M10: last year’s attempt had to be abandoned after the crux because of lack of ice, and unfortunately this year the route was in dangerous condition. Not wanting to go home empty-handed Bubu spotted an improbable looking line 200m to the right of X Files.

Two hours and 30 meters later he emerged triumphant from this steep and extremely nerve wracking pitch that links two hanging stalactites via pegs, nuts, friends and some very friable rock. Bubu placed an ice screw at the end and simply lowered off. Candles in the Wind is graded M8.

Given the form that Bubu and other ice climbers are in, M10 must now be very close indeed.


Text and photos by Andrea Gallo