'Luce e Tenebre' on Punta Pioda established by Filippo Sala, Roger Schäli, Silvan Schüpbach

From the 6th to the 9th of March, the Swiss alpinists Filippo Sala, Roger Schäli and Silvan Schüpbach opened a spectacular new route on the north face of Punta Pioda. Also known as Punta di Sciora, this extraordinary granite peak, standing at 3,237 meters in the Sciora group, was climbed by the team after spending one night at the Sciora Hut and two bivouacs on the wall. They breached difficulties up to M8, A3, and 70° on the 700-meter route named Luce e Tenebre (Light and Darkness).

The trio, who had never climbed together before, explained "One of those “forgotten North Faces” – a long-term project from Silvan of climbing the last wild walls in the alps.

Despite we never climbed together all three of us, the team works well despite this wild adventure with loose rock, freezing temperatures and highest difficulties.

We spent 4 days on the wall, and the feeling was that every pitch was a real conquer; long and complex pitches mixed up in between aid and free!

The first night we went back to the hut and the others 2 nights we bivy on the wall. We will remember this one for a while!"

Further information will follow in due course.

 

 

 

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