Grandes Jorasses: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Il Giovane Guerriero for Matteo Pasquetto

We’re on the top of the Grandes Jorasses and I feel like crying for joy. I smile at Leo and I see my state of mind reflected in his eyes, everything ran smoothly and now that we’re finally able to stop and enjoy a few moments of tranquility before starting the descent, we realise how intensely our friend Matteo lived out his last day. There, on top of the Walker Spur, we remind ourselves how great it is to climb mountains, how we get excited like children in a candy store, and that’s exactly why we keep coming back for more.

Il Giovane Guerriero, the Young Warrior, is a route which stands out for the style of its first ascent: it’s almost completely clean having practically no in-situ gear apart from a handful of pegs and 3 bolts, the climbing is hard (7b+/c max and 7a obligatory), the belays need to be establishing and a retreat isn’t possible unless you abandon much of your gear as you bail.

When I heard the news of Matteo's accident I was working at the Monzino hut. I simply couldn't believe I’d just lost another friend, a peer, a promising young mountain guide with whom I’d shared projects, dreams, memories and a bundle of laughs. Especially those, because anyone who knew Matteo knows that one of the first thing he always laugh about things, for better or for worse.

Making the first ascent of new route up the East Farce of the Grandes Jorasses in 2020 is certainly no mean feat. I’m convinced though that he would have told me about it in such a simple manner as to render it something completely normal. Because that’s what he was like, and this climb honours his achievements.

Leo and I decided to remember Matteo in the best possible way by climbing his route and chasing the chalk marks left during their first ascent. The intimacy of skin touching rock is something wonderful, and the fact that a few days earlier you were stroking those same holds brought us closer to you, at least for that day you were with us on that wall and you showed us how beautiful it can be to climb the granite east face of the Grandes Jorasses. Thanks Matteo and thanks also to your climbing partners with whom you established this beautiful climb, Matteo della Bordella and Luca Moroni.

by Federica Mingolla

Only a year ago we were together, climbing that face, that very same mountain! It seems like yesterday... the memories are unforgettable and I will treasure them forever, like your contagious euphoria and your way of taking to the mountains. Thanks my friend for the time we spent together and congratulations for your new route ;-) I know you looked after us and I know you would have been proud of us.

by Leonardo Gheza

Federica thanks: La Sportiva, Petzl, Sherpa Mountain Shop asporteyewear, goCamera, Firepot outdoor food, Sea to Summit