The routes

Testa o Croce, Heads or Tails, was established over a period of four days ground-up on Taoujdad in the Taghia Gorge. The result is a beautiful climb on consistently excellent rock — never trivial, but not extreme either.

Les Hommes Bleus climbs the NW face of the incredibile Dôme de l'Éléphant in the Tesnou are of the Hoggar desert in Algeria. L’Elephant is a massive, rounded monolith of coarse-grained brown granite that juts out from the desert sands....

23 pitches on the north face of Cerro Walwalun in Cochamó Valley, Chile, opened from February 2 to 6, 2013, by Lorenzo Lanfranchi, Mirko Masè, Simone Pedeferri, Mattia Tisi, and Andrea Zaffaroni. First ascent and free ascent, 7b+ max, 6c+...

El Diedro de lo Squalupo is located in the upper reaches of the the Cochamó valley, in the stunning side valley, Valle de la Paloma, just to the left of Why Papi Guay (2009) in the Sector de Mamón. On the traverse to...

¿Quién sigue? on the east face of Aguja Val Biois follows a crack system that runs parallel to La Torcida (Tom Ehrig, Felix Getzlaff, Lutz Zybell 01/2018) and shares only one belay with this climb, at the pendulum, while the rest is...

Beautiful climb on immaculate granite established all-free on the west face of La Mascara. It shares the first pitch of the legendary South African route before "continuing left up a series of amazing steep corners littered with golden wind blasted face holds.." No...

Via dla Surité is located in another hidden corner of the Dolomites, on the sunny south face of Piz Parom. It is thanks to the somewhat challenging approach that the route gets its name, Via dla Surité, which translated from...

Lastun de Mareo is located on the south pillar of Muntejela de Senes, a truly spectacular location. To reach the start you need to make 6 abseils, preferably with a 60m rope, then you climb back up. It is a...

Forza di Polacco on the north face of Monte Monaco tackles a completely independent line up a beautiful, overhanging pillar and is fully equipped with bolts and belays. 

The route Hasta la vista is mostly on solid rock, only the initial and final pitches require a bit of care. It is certainly not a sports climb. Only the belays 2 to 8 have been equipped with one bolt. In order...

Dolomiti Race on Piz Ciavazes is a a very beautiful multi-pitch alpine sports climb on grey and reddish rock marked by pockets. Established ground-up and rope-solo, the climbing is exposed. The entire route is bolted and all the belays are equipped...

An interesting six-pitch climb that leads to the summit of the famous Pedra Longa sea stack at Baunei in Sardinia. The route tackles a line through the band of yellow wall rock to the left of the excellent Cromosomi Corsari,...

Parzival on Westliche Dreifaltigkeit in the Alpstein group was established ground-up by Markus Hutter, Fabio Lupo and Michael Obendrauf and freed in May 2017 by Michael Wohlleben. Hutter had made an early ground-up foray in 1998 together with Obendrauf, but after a...

Rayu was established ground-up on the south face of Peña Santa de Castilla in the Picos de Europa. The first part consists of seven pitches (about 300 m) with difficulties that do not exceed 7b, but many of them either...

As a first ascensionist, you are never completely objective about your own climbs. But the rock quality is really very good and the climbing is also very varied. In my opinion, Trog mi Wind on the Floitenturm right next to the alla...

Leider Geil on the Speckkarplatte is a really beautiful route on great rock! Every pitch is different from the previous one. In my opinion, it doesn't get much better than this.