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Testa o Croce - Taoujdad

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Lorenzo Gadda

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The first ascent of 'Testa o Croce' on Taoujdad in the Taghia Gorge, Morocco (Luca Caldini, Lorenzo Gadda 04/2024)

archivio Lorenzo Gadda

Beauty

First ascent

Luca Caldini, Lorenzo Gadda 04/2024

Lorenzo Gadda

Length

550m

Difficulty

7a+

Obligatory difficulty

6c+

Departure

Taghia

Route

Testa o Croce, Heads or Tails, was established over a period of four days ground-up on Taoujdad in the Taghia Gorge. The result is a beautiful climb on consistently excellent rock — never trivial, but not extreme either.

Getting there

Reach Taghia

Access

Heads or Tails, starts 50 meters to the left of Widi Azry and crosses this on the upper section at the ninth belay, from where it continues straight up.

Itinerary

See topo

Descent

The descent can be carried out on foot or by abseiling. If there’s enough daylight, I’d recommend walking down; otherwise, if time is tight, rappelling is better. For the descent on foot, a 30-meter rappel is required on the other side of the ridge, to join the descent of Widi Azry.

Gear

For a repeat, 60-meter ropes are mandatory, along with 14 quickdraws, Cams from 0.3 to 0.75, and a few slings.

Notes

Date published: 31/03/2025