Via dla Surité - Piz Parom
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Simon Kehrer
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archivio Simon Kehrer
Via dla Surité is located in another hidden corner of the Dolomites, on the sunny south face of Piz Parom. It is thanks to the somewhat challenging approach that the route gets its name, Via dla Surité, which translated from Ladin means: The route of solitude. Once again the route was climbed in our usual style, ie some bolts along the pitches where it's not possible to add gear, and stainless steel bolts at the belays.
From St. Vigil / San Vigilio di Marebbe continue to Rifugio Pederü.
AccessFrom Pederü continue to the Gran Fanes mountain hut, then on path no. 11 for 2 kilometers to Ju dal' Ega (this can alos be reached easily by e-bike). From here follow the Tru Dolomieu path towards Cima Lavarella and at about 2600 m scramble up a short scree slope to reach the base of the wall. Calculat the Gran Fanes mountain hut about 1.25 - 1.5 hours.
ItineraryP1: 30m V/V+
P2: 30m VI
P3: 18m V+
P4: 23m 6c+/VII AO
P5: 30m VI/VI+
P6: 22m VII-
P7: 30m VI
Abseil down the route or scramble up the easy ridge to the summit. From here, descend northwest toward Piz Stiga and then continue towards the Gran Fanes mountain hut.
GearGear: 10 quickdraws, 1 set of cams up to BD 3, + 1-2 medium-sized cams
Protection: Bolted belays, and on the pitches there are 2 or 3 bolts per pitch
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