Giai amus a obiare - Pedra Longa
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Josef Hilpold
1 / 8
Nicola Lanzetta
An interesting six-pitch climb that leads to the summit of the famous Pedra Longa sea stack at Baunei in Sardinia. The route tackles a line through the band of yellow wall rock to the left of the excellent Cromosomi Corsari, with which it shares the first two bolts before continuing directly upwards.
The first four pitches of Giai amus a obiare were established on 6 and 7 November 2023 and the route finished by escaping leftwards via a 4c traverse that leads to the abseil descent of the normal route. In 2024 Hilpold returned and added a further two pitches that lead directly to the summit.
Given the difficulties, the new route promises to be an interesting alternative to the extremely popular Marinaio di foresta and Signorina Fantasia, located on the other side of the limestone tower.
From Baunei reach Pedra Longa and park here
GPS coordinates car park: 40°01'38.9"N 9°42'21.3"E
From the parking lot follow a small path that heads south down along a narrow ledge. Ignore a first abseil on a tree and continue on down and then to the left to reach the abseil station. Make one short rappell to reach the small cove and the start of the route (10 minutes).
Start: as for Cromosomi Corsari; use the first two bolts of CC, then continue straight following the Austria Alpin bolts.
ItineraryP1: 6a, 30m
P2: 6a, 30m
P3: 6a+, 25m
P4: 5c, 20m
P5: traverse: 4c 30m traverse left to reach the abseil descent of the normal route
P5: 6b, 30m
P6: 5c, 20m
1 single rope or 2 half ropes, helmet, 12 quickdraws, slings
NotesPublished on: 20/10/2024
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