The routes

An absolute masterpiece on Caporal, initiated in 2005 by Ezio Marlier and Massimo Farina and then abandoned after Farina's untimely death. Acting on Marlier's invitation, Federica Mingolla and Leo Ghezza completed the route in 2020 and Mingolla made the...

A route which rarely comes into condition. The ice is thin in places and this renders the climb demanding despite the fact that there are few vertical sections. The route faces south, takes a line up massive rock gradients and...

Established with the use of aid Adriano Trombetta and Aziz with difficulties up to A2, Duel was subsequently freed on 5 october 2011 by the first ascentionists. As the name suggests, beautiful twin cracks offer physical, continuous and elegant climbing.

End of the Flare climbs the prominent flake offwidth crack seen from the road close to Fornolosa. The first pitch is hidden in the trees and offers powerful and pumpy climbing.

Fat Tony climbs the leftwards diagonal crack with great difficulty until the roof is reached. After bathanging, continue to glory...!

A legendary crack, one of the symbols of Valle dell’Orco, an absolute valley classic. Not to be missed. Fessura della Disperazione, the crack of despair is an enormous crack that plunges through the compact slabs of the Sergent. Although...

Varied and interesting climing with some great pitches which need to be protected with trad gear and two difficult bolt-protected slabs.

Itaca nel Sole is possibily the most repeated route on Caporal in Valle dell'Orco. First ascended in June 1975 by Gian Piero Motti and Guido Morello with A2 aid on the upper section, it was freed in 2003 by Cristian...

Magnificent granite climbing which alternates demanding slabs with fantastic cracks.

Nocturnal Nightmare is an absolutely superb and highly recommend outing up the Pala di Fornolosa. Such an adventure to establish this from the ground with no idea of where we were going!

Demanding and physically challenging climb in a steep and severe setting, thin belay. Wonderful climbing up excellent rock. A quick team can start at circa 14:00 in the sun and top out in 3-4 hours.

Beautiful climb, exposed, with some great moves. Rock still needs cleaning in sections.

Highly satisfying, steep climb, exposed and demaning. The route follows some sections of old aid climbs, in particular through the great finishing corners. Some sections of poor but never dangerous rock.

Great 5-pitch line established by Massimiliano Celano and Tiziano Marchetti in September 2012.

Vanessa Robe Neire climbs the large hanging drip at the top of the gully, above the icefall Ninfa ( III/4, 150 m), on the same face as the summer rock climb Tempo Tiranno.

Via Locatelli is the easiest crack climb up Sergent. A great classic, highly popular at the weekends, it provides varied and fun climbing with just one challenging move and a characteristic claustrophobic section! An excellent introduction to the valley and...