La Grande Guerra - Castelletto della Tofana di Rozes
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Great modern alpine sports climb on Castelletto della Tofana di Rozes first ascended from the ground up. It is completely equipped with 10 mm bolts.
From Cortina take the road SS48 that leads up to Passo Falzarego. Park the car about 1km before the pass, next to the bar/restaurant Ra Nona (1985m).
AccessTake path no. 412 that leads away from the bar towards Forcella Col dei Bos. After 10 minutes the path transforms into a dirt track; continue up to the Col (2330m), and from here do not follow signs right for the "Ferrata del Castelletto", but instead proceed along the path that leads to Val Travenanzes until the sign for "Ferrata Lipella". Turn off right, reach the "mysterious boulder" (so-called as it is neatly divided in half) and continue on for a further 5 minutes to reach the north-west face of the Castelletto (1.15 hrs from the car). The bolts can be easily seen from the path: Pacchia starts to the left of the yellow roof, close to the massive grey wet streak, while "La Grande Guerra" starts 50m further right.
DescentFrom the summit either abseil using one 70m rope or, more comfortably, make one abseil to the tunnel hole that leads to the other side of the Castelletto. From here continue down the path in roughly 20 minutes to the base of the routes.
Gear9 quickdraws and one 70m rope.
NotesThe route is equipped with 45 bolts, and 16 for the belays.
Via ripetuta da me e Alan Franklin Sperandio in data 11/08/2024. Protezioni ottime e ambiente e linea da togliere il fiato. A mio parere obbligatorio il grado di 6c, per affrontare con margine il sesto tiro (6c), non azzerabile e con protezioni distanziate. Grazie agli apritori di questa meraviglia dolomitica e a planetmountain.com per aver condiviso la relazione.