The routes

1121
Routes in archive
Pisgana
Ski mountaineering
Pisgana
MSA
A fairy tale ski mountaineering itinerary at altitude which can be carried out in a single day when properly acclimatised. The descent onto the Pisgana glacier can be accessed from various points and the following is the one with the...
Ficazza
Ski mountaineering
Ficazza
BS
A unique place, never crowded and with heavenly snow. It's well-worth the effort skinning up 900m to then trace massive curves down some of the most beautiful snow in the entire Adamello group, and this itinerary is special due to...
Zero 70
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Zero 70
5/5+, II
Pleasing and beautiful line which rarely comes into condition, according to the first ascentionists this climb is not to be missed. The climbing is varied and the crux second pitch involves climbing past the fangs to reach the final, less...
Illuminati
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Illuminati - Vallunga
M11+/WI 6+
On 24 January 2006 Albert Leichtfried made the first ascent of "Illuminati", a 5 pitch mixed outing located in Val Lunga, close to Selva Gardena, N. Italy. The 30 year old Austrian has put forward the impressive grade M11+/WI 6+.Leichtfried...
Monte Cogliàns
Ski mountaineering
Monte Cogliàns
BS, OSA 40°-45°
Classic and popular ski mountaineering itinerary to the summit of the highest peak in the Carnia Alps. This route is highly representative of what this mountain range has to offer, with a long and regular sunny descent. The final climb...
Biegenköpfe Sud
Ski mountaineering
Biegenköpfe Sud
OSA, 35°- 40° for 800m
Lovely descent of medium difficulty that is, however, sustained for about 800 metres.
Fliehende Stürme
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Fliehende Stürme
III 6-
One of the best icefalls in Switzerland. The three pitches are delicate, intricate and exposed, but nevertheless offer good protection.
Lisslerenfall
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Lisslerenfall
IV 5
A fabulous route which often remains in condition when the Föhn has already rendered icefalls unsafe lower down the valley. The route offers dream climbing along all five pitches.
Verschneidung
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Verschneidung
III 4-
Fantastic, pleasant and highly popular route as it is less extreme than other icefalls nearby.
Bluebalu
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Bluebalu
IV 6-
The first of the big routes to be climbed in the Brunnital.
Hydrophobia
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Hydrophobia
III 6
The masterline in the entire valley. In good conditions prepare for the queue. If the starting drip hasn't formed the route can still be climbed by starting up the bolted mixed line.
Cascata di Rochemolles
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Cascata di Rochemolles - Vallone di Rochemolles
III/3+
Beautiful icefall which unfortunately cannot be climbed very often as the right conditions are dictated by a series of different variables. The icefall can only be climbed in safety after an extended freeze and little fresh snow on the upper...
Il Domatore
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Il Domatore - Monte Rosa
I/WI6/R/X
Il Domatore formed in winter 2009/10 thanks to the significant amount of rain which did not fall in previous seasons. The difficulty refers to the first ascent and may change considerably with more or less ice.
La Donna Cannone
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
La Donna Cannone - Monte Rosa
I/5
New icefall which formed in winter 2009/10 thanks to the significant amount of rain which did not fall in previous seasons. The difficulty refers to the first ascent and may change considerably with more or less ice.
Il circo volante
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Il circo volante - Monte Rosa
I/5+
This short icefall finishes beneath the overhangs to the right of Candela di Senden and rarely comes into condition.
La lingua pura
Climbing routes
La lingua pura - Monte Monaco
7c
La lingua pura is perhaps my finest multi-pitch route to date. The route quality is outstanding and alternates a series of tufas and compact corners to climb the impressive North Face of Monte Monaco high above San Vito lo Capo...


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