Hydrophobia
Copia link
Urs Odermatt, UIAA Mountain Guide
1 / 2
Hydrophobia
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
T. Dollinger & B. Rathmayr, 22/01/2000
By
Urs Odermatt, UIAA Mountain Guide
Orientation
West
Length
225m
Difficulty
III 6
Route
The masterline in the entire valley. In good conditions prepare for the queue. If the starting drip hasn't formed the route can still be climbed by starting up the bolted mixed line.
Getting there
Reach Unterschächen in Switzerland. This can be reached easily by public transport. Take the train to Flüelen, then continue by Posttrain to Unterschächen. Reaching Brunnital by car saves not much more then 15 minutes on the walk-in. For those interested in the climbing the Ruchen North Face, get a permit to drive up to Brunnialp from the restaurant at the fork in the road. Access
From Unterschächen head into the Brunnital and park on the left. Continue on foot towards Brunnialp to reach the base of the routes, located on the west side (left) of the valley. Walk-in times vary depending on the route, from 15 minutes to 1 hour. Descent
Abseil down the route. Gear
Full ice climbing rack. Notes
Warning: many starts are exposed to falling ice. During the main season in February the routes receive massive amounts of sun and can therefore become, objectively speaking, extremely dangerous. Despite the vicinity to the road, considerable alpine experience is necessary to correctly judge the conditions. Maps/Bibliography
Hot Ice. Eisklettern in der Schweiz by Urs Odermatt
Reach Unterschächen in Switzerland. This can be reached easily by public transport. Take the train to Flüelen, then continue by Posttrain to Unterschächen. Reaching Brunnital by car saves not much more then 15 minutes on the walk-in. For those interested in the climbing the Ruchen North Face, get a permit to drive up to Brunnialp from the restaurant at the fork in the road. Access
From Unterschächen head into the Brunnital and park on the left. Continue on foot towards Brunnialp to reach the base of the routes, located on the west side (left) of the valley. Walk-in times vary depending on the route, from 15 minutes to 1 hour. Descent
Abseil down the route. Gear
Full ice climbing rack. Notes
Warning: many starts are exposed to falling ice. During the main season in February the routes receive massive amounts of sun and can therefore become, objectively speaking, extremely dangerous. Despite the vicinity to the road, considerable alpine experience is necessary to correctly judge the conditions. Maps/Bibliography
Hot Ice. Eisklettern in der Schweiz by Urs Odermatt
Comments
No comments yet...
Beauty
First ascent
T. Dollinger & B. Rathmayr, 22/01/2000
By
Urs Odermatt, UIAA Mountain Guide
Orientation
West
Length
225m
Difficulty
III 6
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
