The routes

33
Routes in archive
La farfalla tigre
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
La farfalla tigre - Cima Bifora
WI4 M6
A new route that came about almost by chance, from a sudden glance at the face immediately to our left as we approached the classic ice gullies on Monte Nero. Much to our delight the route developed, one pitch after...
Livello Inferiore
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Livello Inferiore
WI4, M?, R
Beautiful climb that offers some modern mixed sections and techincal ice climbing.
Luna Rossa
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Luna Rossa
IV/4/4+
Highly rewarding climb in a deep drip, isolated and solitary. The final pitch can be seen from the road, just before Passo d'Eira looking north (coming from Bormio).
Merà Dimel
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Merà Dimel - Presolana - Anticima delle Quattro Matte
AI 4 M6
Superb alpine outing in a little known area of the Presolana. The route climbs the obvious recessed gully, past compact snow, hard to protect and mixed sections up corners and chimneys. Pro is not always easy to place. Pitches 5...
Monsterline
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Monsterline - Pitztal
WI6
Monsterline is a long and demanding icefall. After a 'warm-up' on the first two pitches the monster awaits on the upper section with continues vertical climbing.The route owes its name to this upper section: the gigantic ice formation, almost always...
Nuovi Orizzonti
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Nuovi Orizzonti
WI4+, M7, R
Beautiful ice climb that offers some modern mixed sections and techincal ice climbing.
Ombelico del Mondo
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Ombelico del Mondo
III/4+
Beautiful icefall in a panoramic setting above the lake. Despite the orientation the ice is almost always terrible, rendering this climb extremely delicate.
Papillon
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Papillon
IV, 4, M6, 5°
Nice route, far from the usual ice climbing destinations...
Piantobaldo
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Piantobaldo - Presolana
WI4 M7 A1
"Piantobaldo" was the name Bruno "Camos” Tassi  gave to Roby Piantoni. After the first two pitches shared with Orobic Ice the route continues for a total of 11 pitches and 600m to climb the NW Face of Presolana Occidentale. This...
Red Bull
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Red Bull
III/4
The walk-in is long but nevertheless well worth the effort: the climbing is splendid and relatively straightforward, set in a wild and isolated habitat. The icefall Bondì Ghibinet can be seen opposite, suspended in the upper section of a deep...
Risiko variation to Mostro di Avers - Thron
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Risiko variation to Mostro di Avers - Thron - Val d'Avers
WI6/M7+
This variation climbs the lefthand drip and breaches the jutting roof. Curiously, during the first ascent a Swiss team comprised of Daniel Benz and Marcel Dettling happened to be in the same place at the same time. They chose a...
Rolling Stones
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Rolling Stones - Monte Nero di Presanella
WI 4+/M6
Great route first climbed to the summit by Andrea Reboldi and Claudio Migliorini on 4/11/2013. The first attempt of this line probably goes back to the 1990s by Care' & C; considering the intense activity by local climbers there may well have...
Sogni di gloria
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Sogni di gloria - Punta Angelo
M4
Beautiful and fun route on a mountain which sees little traffic. The climbing is not particularly difficult and ideal for those who wish to enjoy a great day out in stunning scenery. The climb follows a logical line of weakness;...
Tropical
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Tropical
III/5+
A splendid icefall, physical and unrelenting. Plenty of ice on the upper section, unlike the first lower section, where the little ice that forms tends to deteriorate fairly quickly.
Una via per te fatta in tre
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Una via per te fatta in tre - Monte Nero di Presanella
WI4/M4
Pleasant mixed climb up the sunny south face of Monte Nero. The route, which ends on the summit, is shorter than those on the north face, not too difficult but with some sections that are more demanding. 
Village (Candela del Gipeto Alceste)
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Village (Candela del Gipeto Alceste)
II/4 /4+
Great free-standing drip, equip the belay in the niche where the drip originates from.


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