La farfalla tigre - Cima Bifora
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Giovanni Ghezzi
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La farfalla tigre: On pitch 2 of La farfalla tigre
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Giovanni Ghezzi, Fernando Fusari, Giancarlo Bellotti 01/11/2015
By
Giovanni Ghezzi
Orientation
NW
Length
430m
Height
3026m
Difficulty
WI4 M6
Route
A new route that came about almost by chance, from a sudden glance at the face immediately to our left as we approached the classic ice gullies on Monte Nero. Much to our delight the route developed, one pitch after the next, into a surprisingly logical and beautiful climb.
The route follows the line of least resistance, following the natural features of the face. In-situ gear has been kept to a minimum and some pitches are superb, such as pitches 2 and 3 which are technical but nevertheless sufficiently safe, pitch 6 with its tiring moves up the chimney and off-width crack, and pitch 7 along the crack-lined vertical rock.
The first four pitches were climbed on 31 October 2015, after returning for more pegs the entire ascent was completed the next day, on 01 Novembre 2015 in seven and a half hours.
The route follows the line of least resistance, following the natural features of the face. In-situ gear has been kept to a minimum and some pitches are superb, such as pitches 2 and 3 which are technical but nevertheless sufficiently safe, pitch 6 with its tiring moves up the chimney and off-width crack, and pitch 7 along the crack-lined vertical rock.
The first four pitches were climbed on 31 October 2015, after returning for more pegs the entire ascent was completed the next day, on 01 Novembre 2015 in seven and a half hours.
Gear
60m ropes, set di friends from micro yellow to #3, set of nuts, pegs and hammer.
60m ropes, set di friends from micro yellow to #3, set of nuts, pegs and hammer.
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Beauty
First ascent
Giovanni Ghezzi, Fernando Fusari, Giancarlo Bellotti 01/11/2015
By
Giovanni Ghezzi
Orientation
NW
Length
430m
Height
3026m
Difficulty
WI4 M6
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
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17/11/2015 - Alpinism
La farfalla tigre, new mixed climb up Cima Bifora, Monte Nero di Presanella Giancarlo Bellotti, Fernando Fusari and Giovanni Ghezzi have started their winter climbing season in style with the first ascent of the mixed outing La farfalla tigre (WI4 M6, 430m) on...