Cric e Croc - Rognon Vaudano
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Niccolò Bruni, Guida Alpina
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archivio Niccolò Bruni
A great 6-pitch outing that offers interesting cracks and some technical slabs on the beautiful red and grey granite wall about 150 meters high just below Dent du Géant.
Reach Courmayeur and take the Skyway cable car to Punta Helbronner.
AccessThe approach is about 25/30 minutes from Punta Helbronner and the Torino mountain hut, following the trail that leads towards Aigille Marbrées, and then heading up towards the base of the peak.
ItineraryP1: IV, 10m
P2: 5a, 2 bolts
P3: 6a+, 4 bolts
P4: 6a, 2 bolts
P5: 6b, 2 bolts
P6: 6b+, 2 bolts
Abseil down the route. The belays are equipped with 2 bolts, abseil rings and cord.
Gear1 x 60m rope, 8 quickdraws, 1 set of cams BD C4 from 0.3 - 2, two sets of 0.5, 0.75, 1 and 2
NotesWe decided to call the wall Rognon Vaudano, in memory of Davide Vaudano, who unfortunately died on the Rutor glacier in August 2009. In 1993/1994 the mountain guide Rudy Buccella together with Davide and Roberto Romano, an aspiring guide who also unfortunately died more than twenty years ago, bolted two 4-pitch climbs on the far lefthand side of the face. Since 1993 the glacier has lowered by about 50/60 meters.
Published on: 16/08/2024
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