Rognon Vaudano Mont Blanc, Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra

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C'era una volta il West - Rognon Vaudano

France>Haute-Savoie>Graian Alps>Mont Blanc>Rognon Vaudano

Niccolò Bruni, Mountain Guide

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The first ascent of 'C'era una volta il West' on Rognon Vaudano, Mont Blanc (Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra 27/08/2024)

archivio Niccolò Bruni

Beauty

First ascent

Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra, Giovanna Mongilardi, 27/08/2024

Niccolò Bruni, Mountain Guide

Length

150m

Difficulty

7a+

Obligatory difficulty

6b+

Departure

Rifugio Torino, Punta Helbronner

Route

A beautiful route with amazing crack climbing and plenty of hand jams and laybacks on Rognon Vaudano, below Dent du Géant. The second-to-last, but especially the last pitch are really quite incredible.

Getting there

Reach Courmayeur and take the Skyway cable car to Punta Helbronner.

Access

The approach is about 25/30 minutes from Punta Helbronner and the Torino mountain hut, following the trail that leads towards Aigille Marbrées, and then heading up towards the base of the peak. Start 20m to the right of Cric e Croc.

GPS position
DD: 45.859485, 6.943887
DMS: 45°51'34.1"N 6°56'38.0"E
UTM: 32T 340388 5080491

Itinerary

P1: IV+, 1 bolt
P2: 6a+, 1 bolt
P3: 6a+, 1 bolt
P4: 6c, 3 bolts
P5: 7a+, 2 bolts

Descent

Abseil down the route. The belays are equipped with 2 bolts, abseil rings and cord.

Gear

1 x 60m rope, 8 quickdraws, 1 set of cams BD C4 from 0.3 - 3, two sets of 0.4 and 2, triple 0.5, 0.75 and 1 for the last pitch.

Notes

Published on 09/09/2024