Arête Cosmiques Aiguille du Midi, Arete des Cosmiques

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Arête Cosmiques - Aiguille du Midi, Grand Gendarme Arête des Cosmiques

France>Haute-Savoie>Graian Alps>Mont Blanc>Aiguille du Midi, Grand Gendarme Arête des Cosmiques

Marco Sappa, Mountain Guide

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Arête Cosmiques: Aiguille du Midi, Arete des Cosmiques, Mont Blanc

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

Victor Estrangin, Nicolas Portard 2013

Marco Sappa, Mountain Guide

Orientation

Length

50m

Height

3800m

Difficulty

Departure

Chamonix

Route

Compared to the world famous Digital Crack, Arête Cosmiques offers a completely different style of climbing and was established in 2013 by Nicolas Portard and Victor Estrangin. As the name suggests, this climbing the righthand arête past some interesting and powerful sequences. Once again, the route is graded 8a.

Getting there

From Chamonix take the Aiguille du Midi cable car to the summit.

Access

From the terrace at the end of the 'Arête des Cosmiques' descend the ladder, continue along the ridge for 15m to reach an abseil station. A 40m abseil leads to the lower section of the ridge which, after 50m, leads to the base of the obvious gendarme.

Itinerary

Arête Cosmiques is a single 35m pitch - 8a

Descent

Both pitches can be climbed toprope with an 80m rope.

Gear

15 quickdraws for the pitches. For the approach: ice axe, crampons, gear for an abseil, mid size cams for the return.