Electric Avenue - Aiguille du Midi, Grand Gendarme Arête des Cosmiques

Victor Varoshkin
1 / 6
Repeating 'Arête Cosmiques' on the Grand Gendarme des Cosmiques, Aiguille du Midi, Mont Blanc (Emiliyan Kolevski, Victor Varoshkin)
Never Know Productions
Beauty
First ascent
Emiliyan Kolevski, Victor Varoshkin 10/08/2022
By
Victor Varoshkin
Orientation
S
Ascent height difference
3800m
Difficulty
7b
Departure
Chamonix
Arrival
Aiguille du Midi


Route



Electric Avenue is an interesting addition to the Gendarme des Cosmiques, only the third route on the granite monolith after Digital Crack (1990) and Arête Cosmiques (2013) and at 7b the easiest way to the summit. Note that if you climb the route in one pitch, it feels more like 7b+/7c as the rope drag affects you in the final boulder to reach the summit.

 

Getting there

From Chamonix take the Aiguille du Midi cable car to the summit.

Access

From the terrace at the end of the 'Arête des Cosmiques' descend the ladder, continue along the ridge for 15m to reach an abseil station. A 40m abseil leads to the lower section of the ridge which, after 50m, leads to the base of the obvious gendarme.

Itinerary

The climb can be split into two pitches, the first in the region of 7a, the second 7b.

Pitch 1 (7a) can be split in two sections - starts with 6c boulder and finishes with a dihedral with a crack (6b) which accepts following yellow, red, green, purple, white and blue camelots.
Pitch 2 (7b) is similar to a long boulder problem with a classical bouldery top out.

Gear

Yellow, red, green, purple, white and blue camelots for the crack on pitch 1.

Notes

Published on 12/06/2024





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Beauty
First ascent
Emiliyan Kolevski, Victor Varoshkin 10/08/2022
By
Victor Varoshkin
Orientation
S
Ascent height difference
3800m
Difficulty
7b
Departure
Chamonix
Arrival
Aiguille du Midi

Route



Routes in the same mountain group

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