The routes

Climbing routes

25
Routes in archive
Calypso
Calypso - Gola del Limarò
6b
Calypso is a plaisir rock climb that tackles the wall at the end of the canyon. The climbing is both interesting and varied in a beautiful setting. Although it’s mainly bolted, some sections need protecting with cams. The rock has...
Fabio Comini
Fabio Comini - Padaro
VIII or VII/A1
Via Fabio Comini it follows a logical line up the Padaro rock face, past pumpy and varied climbing along chimneys, corners and cracks. The six pitch outing is about 180 meters high and, although fairly short, is nevertheless demanding. The...
Figli del Vento
Figli del Vento - Rupe di Santa Massenza (Rupe di Fraveggio)
7b+
Pleasant rock climb Valle dei Laghi established ground-up by Peter Moser and Alessandro Beber in April 2012 and then freed by the first ascentionists. "During the ground-up first ascent we used some trad gear (some small and mid-sized friends)...
Il sole e la luna
Il sole e la luna - Transatlantico
7a+/7b
Il sole e la luna, the sun and the moon, was established all free and ground-up without the use of aid between one bolt and the next. The rock is excellent, the third pitch is spectacular. The climb is totally...
L'Ora del Garda
L'Ora del Garda - Mandrea Arco
8a
Demanding and sustained climb."All said are done there are 10 pitches, 9 new ones plus a final easy pitch shared with another route. The route climbs an extraordinary void, offers a nice variety of climbing styles the demand a disturbing...
La tigre, il daino e il gladiatore
La tigre, il daino e il gladiatore - Piccolo Dain - Parete del Limarò
7c+/8a
Sustained sport climb up excellent rock which requires special care only on the Vi pitch. Pitch 4 is the highlight, with a difficult crux followed by continuous, tiring and elegant climbing. Established ground-up over a series of days without any...
Le Vrai Plaisir - (Pampers)
Le Vrai Plaisir - (Pampers) - Piccolo Dain
8a+
Sustained and difficult multi-pitch sport climb up always excellent rock, established ground-up. The difficulty of the route, apart from its sustained nature, is given by the fact that the hardest two pitches are located right at the end. All belays...
Luce di Primo Mattino
Luce di Primo Mattino - Piccolo Dain
8a
According to Rolando Larcher, despite some vegetation low down Luce di Primo Mattino "offers surprisingly good quality rock from start to finish."
Mescalito
Mescalito - Monte Colodri

'Bold climb whose name is reminiscent of undertakings in Yosemite Valley, up El Capitan. This however is a wonderful free climb.' These are the words used in by 1984 Roberto Bassi to describe the multi-pitch rock climb Mescalito in his...
Mister Magoo
Mister Magoo - Piccolo Dain
7c/S2/II
First ascended from the ground-up with bolts, the route is dedicated to their teacher Franco Cavallaro who, together with Giuanguido Dalfovo, carried out the first repeat and redpoint on 17 November 2008. These commented: "The route climbed by strong Canale...
Opera Buffa
Opera Buffa - Monte Colodri
7c+
Opera Buffa follows a logical line up the East Face of Monte Colodri and was established ground-up over a period of 4 days in 2020, before being free by both first ascensionists in April 2021.Halfway up pitch 1 the route...
Pace in Siria
Pace in Siria - Monte Dain
7a+
Pace in Siria, Peace in Syria, provides beautiful climbing up excellent limestone. Continuous 6c/7a difficulties lead past technical climbing requiring finger strength and good footwork, typical of Valle del Sarca. The route is entirely protected by bolts but a good...
Piccolo Diavolo
Piccolo Diavolo - Monte Colodri
8a
Piccolo Diavolo was bolted in 2011 during three days and breaches excellent rock. Six long pitches climb the full height of the South Face of Colodri, with difficulties up to 8a past obligatory 7a climbing. The first pitches are a...
Speta che vegno
Speta che vegno - Croz dele Mirandole - Roccione di Ranzo, Valle del Sarca
7b
Climbed it trad wherever possible and added bolts where the compact slabs accepted no gear. The first ascent was carried out over several days throughout autumn and winter. The climb has been called Speta che Vegno, wait for us, because it...
Testa tra le nuvole
Testa tra le nuvole - Mandrea Arco
7a+
Head in the Clouds was started by Ivan Maghella on his own, then completed with Alessandro Arduini. Established ground-up, the route provides continuous difficulties with elegant climbing past pockets and goutte d’eau. Some pitches are overhaning, so there’s a bit...


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