L'Ora del Garda - Mandrea Arco
Copia link
Planetmountain
1 / 25
L'Ora del Garda
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi 10 and 16/11/2013, 17/05/2014, 6/01/2015, 5/03/2015 (except for pitch 1 established by Giampaolo Calzà). FFA: Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi 24/03/2015
By
Planetmountain
Length
355m
Difficulty
8a
Obligatory difficulty
7b+
Route
Demanding and sustained climb.
"All said are done there are 10 pitches, 9 new ones plus a final easy pitch shared with another route. The route climbs an extraordinary void, offers a nice variety of climbing styles the demand a disturbing amount of stamina for final redpoint that sealed our efforts."
"All said are done there are 10 pitches, 9 new ones plus a final easy pitch shared with another route. The route climbs an extraordinary void, offers a nice variety of climbing styles the demand a disturbing amount of stamina for final redpoint that sealed our efforts."
Access
The route starts to the right of Maurizio Giordani’s masterpiece Fiore di Corall. Itinerary
P1: 7a+
P2: 7a+
P3: 8a
P4: 7c+
P5: 7b
P6: 8a
P7: 7b+
P8: 7c+/8a
P9: 6c
P10: 5a Descent
Take care if making the descent by abseil; this is complex due to the overhanging nature of the climb and the fact that some pitches ascend diagonally Gear
12 quickdraws, 2 totem blue + 2 yellow + 1 red + 2BD
The route starts to the right of Maurizio Giordani’s masterpiece Fiore di Corall. Itinerary
P1: 7a+
P2: 7a+
P3: 8a
P4: 7c+
P5: 7b
P6: 8a
P7: 7b+
P8: 7c+/8a
P9: 6c
P10: 5a Descent
Take care if making the descent by abseil; this is complex due to the overhanging nature of the climb and the fact that some pitches ascend diagonally Gear
12 quickdraws, 2 totem blue + 2 yellow + 1 red + 2BD
See all photos
Comments
23/01/2023 Hampus Räf
Climbed on 20/01/2023 free with Megan Cosgrove. I led all pitches. Pitch 8, in my opinion the hardest one, is the true crux. Hanging belay, very steep and exposed climbing. And totally amazing! I’m honored to climb such a beautiful route! Thanks to Larcher and Giupponi for for all work!
Beauty
First ascent
Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi 10 and 16/11/2013, 17/05/2014, 6/01/2015, 5/03/2015 (except for pitch 1 established by Giampaolo Calzà). FFA: Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi 24/03/2015
By
Planetmountain
Length
355m
Difficulty
8a
Obligatory difficulty
7b+
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
20/05/2015 - Climbing
L'Ora del Garda, Larcher and Giupponi climb new route at Mandrea (Arco) Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi, during five days from November 2013 to March 2015, made the first ascent of L'Ora del Garda (355m, 8a max, 7b+ obligatory), a challenging and...