Opera Buffa - Monte Colodri
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Alessandro Beber, Mountain Guide
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Opera Buffa: Monte Colodri, Alessandro Beber Matteo Pavana
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Alessandro Beber, Matteo Pavana, ground-up 4 days in 2020. FFA: by both climbers on 21/04/2021
By
Alessandro Beber, Mountain Guide
Orientation
East
Difficulty
7c+
Obligatory difficulty
7a
Period
Spring, autumn
Route
Opera Buffa follows a logical line up the East Face of Monte Colodri and was established ground-up over a period of 4 days in 2020, before being free by both first ascensionists in April 2021.
Halfway up pitch 1 the route crosses Variante Groaz (1976), on pitch 4 it crosses Involution (Maurizio Giordani, 1987); furthermore, pitch 6 shares the belay of Katia Monte. After having completed the route we added some bolts, such as the easy exits of some pitches, to avoid being insulted by those who repeat the line.
The name of the route, Opera Buffa, is intended as a tribute to Patrick Edlinger's magical Opera Vertical; we’re fully aware of the fact that our small climbs are almost comical and somewhat clumsy when compared to the those of the great artists who, in the past, really showed us how to dance up a rock face.
Halfway up pitch 1 the route crosses Variante Groaz (1976), on pitch 4 it crosses Involution (Maurizio Giordani, 1987); furthermore, pitch 6 shares the belay of Katia Monte. After having completed the route we added some bolts, such as the easy exits of some pitches, to avoid being insulted by those who repeat the line.
The name of the route, Opera Buffa, is intended as a tribute to Patrick Edlinger's magical Opera Vertical; we’re fully aware of the fact that our small climbs are almost comical and somewhat clumsy when compared to the those of the great artists who, in the past, really showed us how to dance up a rock face.
Getting there
Reach Arco, Italy Access
From Arco reach the swimming pool and continue to Pizzera California. The route starts 20m to the left of via Barbara (name at the base). Itinerary
P1: 6b+, 45m
P2: 6c, 20m
P3:6c+, 35m
P4: 7a+, 30m
P5:7c+, 40m
P6: 6c+, 35m
P7:6c+, 30m
P8: 6c, 20m
P9: 6c+, 25m Descent
Recommended on foot via the path that descends to Arco; alternatively 7 abseils, some 55m long, taking care to start 10m to the right of the exit of the route (sling with maillon rapide), heading to one of the belays of Via Katia. Clip bolts during the third abseil (on P6) as this is traverses decidedly. Gear
14 quickdraws Notes
First repeat by Elio Mazzalai, Nicola Cont and Sebastiano Merz on 25 April 2021.
Reach Arco, Italy Access
From Arco reach the swimming pool and continue to Pizzera California. The route starts 20m to the left of via Barbara (name at the base). Itinerary
P1: 6b+, 45m
P2: 6c, 20m
P3:6c+, 35m
P4: 7a+, 30m
P5:7c+, 40m
P6: 6c+, 35m
P7:6c+, 30m
P8: 6c, 20m
P9: 6c+, 25m Descent
Recommended on foot via the path that descends to Arco; alternatively 7 abseils, some 55m long, taking care to start 10m to the right of the exit of the route (sling with maillon rapide), heading to one of the belays of Via Katia. Clip bolts during the third abseil (on P6) as this is traverses decidedly. Gear
14 quickdraws Notes
First repeat by Elio Mazzalai, Nicola Cont and Sebastiano Merz on 25 April 2021.
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Beauty
First ascent
Alessandro Beber, Matteo Pavana, ground-up 4 days in 2020. FFA: by both climbers on 21/04/2021
By
Alessandro Beber, Mountain Guide
Orientation
East
Difficulty
7c+
Obligatory difficulty
7a
Period
Spring, autumn
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
29/04/2021 - Alpinism
Monte Colodri, Arco: Alessandro Beber, Matteo Pavana complete their Opera Buffa On the east face of Monte Colodri in Arco (Sarca Valley, Italy) Alessandro Beber and Matteo Pavana have established the multi-pitch rock climb Opera Buffa (270m, 7c+). Beber reports.