Il sole e la luna - Transatlantico
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Daniele Bolognani
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archivio Daniele Bolognani
Il sole e la luna, the sun and the moon, was established all free and ground-up without the use of aid between one bolt and the next. The rock is excellent, the third pitch is spectacular. The climb is totally independent, does not cross any other route, and is is located between Servus Franz on the left and La fattoria degli animali on the right.
From Arco drive to Pietramurata in the Sarca Valley.
AccessTake the path behind the New Vintage bar in Pietramurata until you reach to a small road, turn left and continue to a more obvious forest road, follow this until you find yourself directly below Trasatlantico. Shortly after the hairpin bend notice a path that leads off to the left (cairn) up to the wall. It is possible to reach the forest road by parking at the cross track and crossing it on foot between the motocross track and the enduro track. At the base of the wall the path splits: turn right and reach the route after just 5 meters (plaque at the start).
ItineraryP1: 6b/6b+ 9 bolts
P2: 6a+ 5 bolts
P3: 7a+/b 11 bolts
P4: 6b+ 4 bolts
Abseil down the route (one 40m abseil from the second belay deposits you on the ground) or exit the wall, and continue on foot, uphill to reach the forest road. Follow this downhill to the car.
Gear12 quickdraws, 80m single rope for the abseils.
Gear: 10mm bolts, bolts with 2 bolts + abseil ring
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Bella via. Va alla ricerca dell ultima fascia di roccia azzurra della parete. Chiodatura distanziata ma mai pericolosa. Qualche ripetizione può solo migliorarla.