Daniele Bolognani
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Establishing pitch 3 of 'Il sole e la luna' on Transatlantico in Valle del Sarc, Italy (Silvia Bert, Daniele Bolognani)
archivio Daniele Bolognani
Beauty
First ascent
Silvia Bert, Daniele Bolognani 09/2023, 04/2024
By
Daniele Bolognani
Orientation
East
Length
100m
Difficulty
7a+/7b
Obligatory difficulty
7a, S2/S2+
Departure
Pietramurata

Route



Il sole e la luna, the sun and the moon, was established all free and ground-up without the use of aid between one bolt and the next. The rock is excellent, the third pitch is spectacular. The climb is totally independent, does not cross any other route, and is is located between Servus Franz on the left and La fattoria degli animali on the right.

Getting there

From Arco drive to Pietramurata in the Sarca Valley.

Access

Take the path behind the New Vintage bar in Pietramurata until you reach to a small road, turn left and continue to a more obvious forest road, follow this until you find yourself directly below Trasatlantico. Shortly after the hairpin bend notice a path that leads off to the left (cairn) up to the wall. It is possible to reach the forest road by parking at the cross track and crossing it on foot between the motocross track and the enduro track. At the base of the wall the path splits: turn right and reach the route after just 5 meters (plaque at the start).

Itinerary

P1: 6b/6b+ 9 bolts
P2: 6a+ 5 bolts
P3: 7a+/b 11 bolts
P4: 6b+ 4 bolts

Descent

Abseil down the route (one 40m abseil from the second belay deposits you on the ground) or exit the wall, and continue on foot, uphill to reach the forest road. Follow this downhill to the car.

Gear

12 quickdraws, 80m single rope for the abseils.
Gear: 10mm bolts, bolts with 2 bolts + abseil ring





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Beauty
First ascent
Silvia Bert, Daniele Bolognani 09/2023, 04/2024
By
Daniele Bolognani
Orientation
East
Length
100m
Difficulty
7a+/7b
Obligatory difficulty
7a, S2/S2+
Departure
Pietramurata

Route



Position



Routes in the same mountain group

Show more in Valle del Sarca

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