The routes

Via Locatelli is the easiest crack climb up Sergent. A great classic, highly popular at the weekends, it provides varied and fun climbing with just one challenging move and a characteristic claustrophobic section! An excellent introduction to the valley and...

A legendary crack, one of the symbols of Valle dell’Orco, an absolute valley classic. Not to be missed. Fessura della Disperazione, the crack of despair is an enormous crack that plunges through the compact slabs of the Sergent. Although...

Climbed it trad wherever possible and added bolts where the compact slabs accepted no gear. The first ascent was carried out over several days throughout autumn and winter. The climb has been called Speta che Vegno, wait for us, because it...

Mingus in the Verdon Gorge is one of the most famous and at the same time fabled rock climbs on these smooth limestone walls in southern France. First ascended in 1986 with the use of aid by Christophe Froifond and...

Head in the Clouds was started by Ivan Maghella on his own, then completed with Alessandro Arduini. Established ground-up, the route provides continuous difficulties with elegant climbing past pockets and goutte d’eau. Some pitches are overhaning, so there’s a bit...

'Bold climb whose name is reminiscent of undertakings in Yosemite Valley, up El Capitan. This however is a wonderful free climb.' These are the words used in by 1984 Roberto Bassi to describe the multi-pitch rock climb Mescalito in his...

L'isola che non c’è was first ascended ground-up over a period of 5 days in the cleanest style possible, i.e. with very few bolts along the pitches, a handful of insitu pegs where the rock accepts them. All the rest...

Nuvole Bianche was first ascended after 3 attempts, two in 2014 and one in 2016. The hardest part of the route are definitely the first three pitches through the yellow section, that requires good degree of fitness. We returned in...

Mente Demente climbs up the righthand side of the face, between the routes Anita (Massarotto-Salvestro 1984) and Massarotto - Bellin - Sansonne - Zonta (1992). The start is situated on the long grassy ledge that cuts across the wall, next...

Uein Line ascends the obvious water streaks up Große Fermeda, the striking tower in one of the most famous mountain groups in the Dolomites, the Geisler.

Nice climbing on exceptional limestone. Shade depending on what season you climb, in summer until 12/13. In winter, avoid days when the mistral or libeccio winds blow.

Via Elia breaches the SW Face of Steviola, high above the village Selva di Val Gardena, with nine pitches of sustained climbing. The route is protected with 10mm bolts.

Difficult multi-pitch climb up the Roi de Siam granite tower, located directly in front of the Petit Capucin. Established ground-up, the climb takes a line in the center of the face, between the 1989 Petit Capoussin climb and the classic Boccalatte...

An enjoyable climb on mostly solid rock. The first half offers good crack climbing (and a stellar p5) for half a day and from the top of the pillar (p6) it is easy to rap to the Col del Bloque...