Mingus - Verdon Gorge

Getting there
From the north: take the A6 motoway to Avignon and take the N100 for Apt, then Manosque and Riez. From here take the D56 to Moustiers, and continue along the D952 to La Palud.

From the south: from Nice take the N85 to Castellane, and continue along the D952 for La Palud. Shortly before entering the village turn left along the D23, the panoramic Route des Cretes, which leads to the Belvedere de la Carelle lookout and the routes. Itinerary
Pitch 1: 6c+
Once you survive the 2+ traverse from Baume de l’Escales, you’re happy to clip two new bolts to keep yourself alive while starting the route. By far the loosest pitch of the route. Climbing up on crazy pockets in poor rock. Bolts are good.

Pitch 2: 7b
Fantastic start, left traverse in grey rock leading to a slab where you have to climb on it’s right and then traverse left towards the boulder problem. I replaced the bolt there slightly to the right, so it makes it more logic trying the boulder.

Pitch 3: 8a
Climbing up and then undercling traverse to the right leading to the first hard move. Replaced a bolt at that spot. Then continuously hard climbing on cauliflower holds. Requires some fresh temps, stiff shoes and a good portion of skin.

Pitch 4: 7a
Great Verdon water drop traverse to the left, then I replaced a bolt leaving the ramp. Climbing somehow straight up on poor rock. Scary. I replaced one bolt on a very loose spot.

Pitch 5: 7b+
Starts in the same poor rock as the previous. Then great boulder problem on grey rock! I replaced two bolts at a slightly different spot, but left one of the old ones for aid climbers.

Pitch 6: 6c
Amazing climbing with a touch of alpine style. Good pitons.

Pitch 7: 7c
Great climbing in typical grey Verdon rock. Vertical climbing on good pockets for the first half, then the wall becomes slabby and the holds very small. Hard on feet.

Pitch 8: 7b+
Great start leading up towards another line crossing in from the left. Don’t use the first weird anchor and continue straight up on the new bolt. Clip the sling to avoid rope traction and cross left again toward the other new bolt leading up to the anchor 10 meters above. That has been the only spot where I (and other climbers) has been confused about the line. The original line takes you out left to loose flakes and almost impossible free climb. So I used the logical itinerary which included adding two bolt to the right. Also I had to bolt an anchor which had been missing (maybe a bolt came out in the past).

Pitch 9: 7b
Splendid and spicy pitch on pockets in grey rock leading to the belay on a big ledge.

Pitch 10: 7b+
A real tough one to finish the series of 7b+. Hard and slippery rock to start, I replaced two bolts to avoid a bad ground fall to the ledge. Then technical traverse to the left and technical boulder problem at the end.

Pitch 11: 7a+
A simple beauty taking you straight up to a belay underneath the roof.

Pitch 12: 7a+
It’s easy to skip the previous belay and to make one long pitch by clipping a long sling on the anchor. Big undercling move to reach good crimps on a little stripe. Linking this roof section towards the good belay station 15 meters above. Maybe harder for the second climber.

From the last belay it’s a 3+ bush scrambling to the top. Good bolt at the end.

Notes
The Verdon requires perfect abseiling technique. Never forget to tie a knot in the end of the ropes, and tie into prussik loops, prior to abseiling.
Maps/Bibliography
"Escalade au Verdon" by P. Légier, F. Ristori and A. Jami