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Routes > Climbing routes > La Torcida - Aguja Val Biois

La Torcida - Aguja Val Biois

Argentina>Patagonia>Patagonia>Fitz Roy>Aguja Val Biois
Tom Ehrig
Main article
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Aguja Val Biois, Patagonia: the Fitz Roy skyline with Aguja Val Biois and the new route La Torcida (Tom Ehrig, Felix Getzlaff, Lutz Zybell 01/2018)
archive Tom Ehrig
Beauty
First ascent
Tom Ehrig, Felix Getzlaff, Lutz Zybell (GER), 15.01.2018 to Filo Sur
By
Tom Ehrig
Orientation
East
Length
450 m
Height
2650 m
Difficulty
7a M
Departure
El Chalten

Route



An enjoyable climb on mostly solid rock. The first half offers good crack climbing (and a stellar p5) for half a day and from the top of the pillar (p6) it is easy to rap to the Col del Bloque Empotrada approach and down this. The upper part provides more strenuous crack climbing (mostly fingers) and is worth repeating (especially if the weather isn't good enough for bigger adventures). Sheltered from the west winds.

Getting there

From El Chalten reach Paso Superior.

Access

From Paso Superior to Glaciar Piedras Blancas Superior (1h)

Gear

Doubles to #3, one #4, triples #0.3-1 useful, 4-5 TCUs, 1-2 set stoppers. Crampons & Ice axes if p11+12 are mixed. We left no gear in place.


La Torcida, Aguja Val Biois, Patagonia, Tom Ehrig, Felix Getzlaff, Lutz Zybell - Aguja Val Biois, Patagonia: on the approach to our advanced base camp, a snow cave at Paso Superior. In the background from the left: Fitz Roy with Goretta Pillar, Ag. Val Biois, Ag. Mermoz and Ag. GuillaumetLa Torcida, Aguja Val Biois, Patagonia, Tom Ehrig, Felix Getzlaff, Lutz Zybell - Aguja Val Biois, Patagonia: climbing the awesome fifth pitch of La Torcida. Enjoyable crack climbing up to 6b, even if the two meter roof looked way harder from down below. La Torcida, Aguja Val Biois, Patagonia, Tom Ehrig, Felix Getzlaff, Lutz Zybell - Aguja Val Biois, Patagonia: Felix Getzlaff seconding the fifth pitch with light snowfall, but in good mood. La Torcida, Aguja Val Biois, Patagonia, Tom Ehrig, Felix Getzlaff, Lutz Zybell - Aguja Val Biois, Patagonia: Tom Ehrig climbs into the headwall on pitch seven. Now the difficulties increase. Even if the dihedrals in the upper part look huge, the cracks in them were thin.La Torcida, Aguja Val Biois, Patagonia, Tom Ehrig, Felix Getzlaff, Lutz Zybell - Aguja Val Biois, Patagonia: pitch 9 of La Torcida, the crux pitch. Hard from the start, with strenuous moves up the thin finger crack. In the back looms the Pilar Goretta of Fitz Roy.La Torcida, Aguja Val Biois, Patagonia, Tom Ehrig, Felix Getzlaff, Lutz Zybell - Aguja Val Biois, Patagonia: encountering easier, but mixed terrain on pitch 11 of La Torcida
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Beauty
First ascent
Tom Ehrig, Felix Getzlaff, Lutz Zybell (GER), 15.01.2018 to Filo Sur
By
Tom Ehrig
Orientation
East
Length
450 m
Height
2650 m
Difficulty
7a M
Departure
El Chalten

Route



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