The routes

An extraordinary route. From the third pitch you can marvel at the fish in the sea a hundred metres. La Calanque was first climbed in 1948 by R. Reynaud and R. Roulet and although protected by bolts, a set of...

Paroi Noire: at first glance this face looks completely smooth, but as you get closer it surprises you with a series of weathered pockets and crimps, often difficult to see even close up! First ascended in 1941 by M. Forestier...

The route climbs the large North Face of Monte Monaco and heads to a large pillar that terminates below the summit on large grassy terraces. Although the difficulties are not extreme, only few bolts were placed during the first ascent...

Perda asub 'e pari (also known as Garibaldi) literally means "One stone above the other" is a truly surprising granite peak! Inside there is a maze of tunnels which lead from one side of the mountain to the other. On...

Pleasant "easy" new route at Gorropu established by Corrado Pibiri and Vincenzo Carcangiu: 335m high, 7 pitches, excellent grey limestone slabs. Bolted throughout, the Los Compadres is graded 5c+.

Completely bolt protected new route up a hitherto unclimbed face called Costas Mammaluccas, located shortly before the section of the Gole di Gorropu canyon which hosts a series of small lakes.The 470m route offers ten pitches and climbs beautiful grey...

In April 2013 German climbers Roland Hemetzberger and Fabian Hagenauer spent 5 days establishing Tabula Rasa. All pitches, except the first, were forged ground-up; the starting pitch was bolted from above seeing that the first belay can accessed easily from...

In the remote part of High Atlas Mountains in Morocco, a small Polish team comprised of David Kaszlikowski, Eliza Kubarska and Borek Szybinski freed the new multi-pitch “Barracuda” (7c+ max. 7a+ obligatory) on Mount Oujdad (2695m), Taghia Gorge in June...

In April 2013 Ines Papert, Lisi Steurer and Patrik Aufdenblatten made the first ascent of Azazar (400m, 8a) up the Tadrarate rock face in the Taghia Gorge, Morocco. Papert described the nine pitch line as "a somewhat alpine outing...

From 6 - 27 October 2003 the Italian climbers Rolando Larcher, Michele Paissan and Maurizio Oviglia established Sul filo della notte (7c+ max; 7b obl) in the Taghia gorge, High Atlas, Morocco.

According to Rolando Larcher, despite some vegetation low down Luce di Primo Mattino "offers surprisingly good quality rock from start to finish."

The new route Oiscura... L'eco del Baratro was first ascended ground-up using a drill and hook and without intermediate gear and it takes a line through the cave to the left of the beautiful Via Mediterraneo on Punta Giradili. Those...

Sinfonia del mulino bianco is a good-natured play on words and refers back to Sinfonia dei mulini a vento on the Aguglia of Goloritzé, the famous rock climb put up by Manolo and Gogna. The new climb is like the...

Dillosauro is located at the Jurassic Park crag on the east coast of Sardinia, and offers exciting climbing up beautiful granite. The line was retraced by Maurizio Oviglia and Fabio Erriu in 2013 after a rockfall had rendered the lower...

Pleasant rock climb Valle dei Laghi established ground-up by Peter Moser and Alessandro Beber in April 2012 and then freed by the first ascentionists. "During the ground-up first ascent we used some trad gear (some small and mid-sized friends)...

Great climbing, excellent rock, fantastic setting, good bolting, generous grades!