The routesClimbing routes

Il colpo di coda - Presolana 



7a+, S3 I
Demanding rock climb up excellent rock, with 9 stainless steel bolts up the pitches + bolts at the belays with abseil rings. The first bolt is located at circa 30m height and tied off with an orange sling.

Spigolo Bonatti - Capo d'Uomo Argentario 



6a
The obvious Capo d’Uomo arête exerts a strong draw as you observe it from the path that leads to this ridge, and gives the impression that it sinks straight down into the sea. I was very torn about whether to...

A piede libero - Corna delle Quattro Matte 



7c+
Forged from the ground-up over three summers, with the use of bolts and without fixed ropes (a bivy was made beneath the summit). The climbing during the first ascent was done free between one bolt and the next (where we...

Orologio senza tempo - Punta Figari 



6b+ max / R2+ / I
Beautiful traditional route, athletic and sustained despite its short length. It was established by Giovannino Massari and Andrea Parodi in July 1982, in two attempts, using almost exclusively nuts (including the belays) except for 3 pegs on Pitch 1 and...

Forest Gump - Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero 



VIII+
We believe our route is harder than Martini-Leoni-Tranquillini because of run-out and sustained climbing. The line is really amazing, always following arête more or less, and in some places this feels really exposed. In general the rock is very good...

Compagni dai campi e dalle officine - Gran Sasso, Corno Grande, vetta Occidentale 



The route breaches the smooth central slabs with some sustained aid (the third pitch is currently the hardest of its kind in this mountain chain). Plan for a bivy (a good site is the 4th belay at the large ledge)....

Alien - Presolana Centrale 



7a+
Demanding new rock climb up the South Face of Presolana first ascended ground-up on 9 August 2012 by Daniele Natali and Stefano Codazzi. The route follows an amazing series of vertical pocketed slabs up fantastic limestone for 150m with difficulties...

Variation Leila to Via Leber Kenedi - Cason de Formin 



V+
5 pitch starting variation to Via Leber Kenedi (Federico Michielli & Michele Da Pozzo, 1990) established by Cortina Mountain Guides Giovanni Zanettin together with his brother Federico and Aldo Vascellari, to the left of Leber Kenedi and to the right...

Via Africa - Torre delle Mëisules Est 



VIII- max
Beautiful route which climbs a line between the famous routes Brunsin and Plitschka up a repulsive yellow pillar past compact, overhanging virgin rock. The 6 pitches were equipped trad style. The belays are good with in-situ gear (in total 9...

Pilastro Parmenide - Cima dell’Auta Orientale 



Difficult and exposed climbing leads through the yellow eastern pillar of Cima dell’Auta, nicknamed “Pilastro Parmenide” after the famous philosopher Elea. The first section climbs free a series of slabs to the base ledge of the rock face, then continues...

Monaco di Clausura - Pizzo Monaco 



6c
Route established ground-up by Fabio Failla and Luigi Fiolcam on 02/06/2012. The climbing varies from cracks, corners, slabs and overhangs. The rock is particularly good quality apart from a few sections where it is still somewhat loose. The central section...

Cara - Val Gadena 



7c
Highly satisfying route in fairly isolated surroundings. The climbing is varied and includes small crimps and pockets, technical slabs and powerful overhangs. The rock quality is very good except for a few meters at the start of the first pitch....

Agoge - Cima Scotoni 



VIII/VIII+
The route climbs good rock up an interesting mix of cracks, slabs and overhangs. Only in three sections is the rock slightly friable, namely on the three crux pitches. Due to the bad weather we established the route after a...

La Raieta - Col Becchei 



V+ A0 (VI)
A very beautiful route, the first on an equally beautiful face hidden deep within the Fanes park, in a quiet, sunny and remote environment. The climb is indeed a real Raieta, the legendary Fanes gem. The route tackles the left...


Due bottoni nel pozzo - Rocca dei Campanili 



7b, S1/ II
The first two pitches are demanding although somewhat sweeter thanks to the excellent bolting. The rock on pitches 2, 3 and 5 is outstanding!
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