Das Orakel - Lagazuoi Nord
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Simon Gietl, Mountain Guide
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Das Orakel: Lagazuoi © Frank Kretschmann
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Beauty
First ascent
Simon Gietl & Patrick Seiwald 2012. FFA: 07/2013
By
Simon Gietl, Mountain Guide
Orientation
North
Length
320m
Difficulty
IX
Route
The route was established in spring 2012 during five days of efforts. Climbing ground-up, Simon Gietl and Patrick Seiwald spent two days getting past the crux and had to resort to A3 aid. The first free ascent was carried out in July 2013 and Gietl describes the route as follows: "where the route climbs dark streaks the rock is excellent quality, whereas the yellow areas are somewhat brittle. Overall the climb is extremely beautiful but demanding, both physically and mentally."
Access
From Passo Falzarego take the cable car and follow the path 20b for 40 minutes to reach the base of the face. The route starts circa 70m to the left of Via del Drago. Descent
From the summit make one abseil, then follo the ledge left and scramble down the gully (UIAA I – II). Reach the war path and scramble down the scree to reach the base. Gear
All pegs were left in-situ. Take a set of Friends, nuts, and possibly a hammer and pegs. Notes
No bolts.
From Passo Falzarego take the cable car and follow the path 20b for 40 minutes to reach the base of the face. The route starts circa 70m to the left of Via del Drago. Descent
From the summit make one abseil, then follo the ledge left and scramble down the gully (UIAA I – II). Reach the war path and scramble down the scree to reach the base. Gear
All pegs were left in-situ. Take a set of Friends, nuts, and possibly a hammer and pegs. Notes
No bolts.
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Beauty
First ascent
Simon Gietl & Patrick Seiwald 2012. FFA: 07/2013
By
Simon Gietl, Mountain Guide
Orientation
North
Length
320m
Difficulty
IX
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
15/08/2013 - Alpinism
Das Orakel, new Lagazuoi climb in the Dolomites Simon Gietl and Patrick Seiwald have established and freed Das Orakel (IX, 320m), a new climb up the North Face of Lagazuoi in the Dolomites.