The routes

Climbing routes

628
Routes in archive
Sul filo della notte - Sur le fil de la nuit
Sul filo della notte - Sur le fil de la nuit - Tadrarate
7c+
From 6 - 27 October 2003 the Italian climbers Rolando Larcher, Michele Paissan and Maurizio Oviglia established Sul filo della notte (7c+ max; 7b obl) in the Taghia gorge, High Atlas, Morocco.
Luce di Primo Mattino
Luce di Primo Mattino - Piccolo Dain
8a
According to Rolando Larcher, despite some vegetation low down Luce di Primo Mattino "offers surprisingly good quality rock from start to finish."
Oiscura... L'eco del Baratro
Oiscura... L'eco del Baratro - Punta Giradili
8b
The new route Oiscura... L'eco del Baratro was first ascended ground-up using a drill and hook and without intermediate gear and it takes a line through the cave to the left of the beautiful Via Mediterraneo on Punta Giradili. Those...
Sinfonia del mulino bianco
Sinfonia del mulino bianco - Guglia dei Miracoli, Bacu Àrala (Baunei)
6a
Sinfonia del mulino bianco is a good-natured play on words and refers back to Sinfonia dei mulini a vento on the Aguglia of Goloritzé, the famous rock climb put up by Manolo and Gogna. The new climb is like the...
Dillosauro
Dillosauro - Jurassic Park
6b/b
Dillosauro is located at the Jurassic Park crag on the east coast of Sardinia, and offers exciting climbing up beautiful granite. The line was retraced by Maurizio Oviglia and Fabio Erriu in 2013 after a rockfall had rendered the lower...
Figli del Vento
Figli del Vento - Rupe di Santa Massenza (Rupe di Fraveggio)
7b+
Pleasant rock climb Valle dei Laghi established ground-up by Peter Moser and Alessandro Beber in April 2012 and then freed by the first ascentionists. "During the ground-up first ascent we used some trad gear (some small and mid-sized friends)...
Acciughe & Bottarga
Acciughe & Bottarga - Scogliera di Masua (Iglesias)
6a/S1+/II
Great climbing, excellent rock, fantastic setting, good bolting, generous grades!
Le Grand Mammut
Le Grand Mammut - Scogliera Monte Nai Masua
6a+
Established from above by Bruno Fonnesu, Le Grand Mammut is 140m high and starts immediately to the right of A scuola dal basso. It is fully bolted with difficulties up to 6a+ (one section) and obligatory 5c climbing.
Zuko traverse
Zuko traverse - Paine North Tower
V 5.10+
On 01/01/2013 the Slovenian alpinists Andrej Grmovšek amd Luka Krajnc made the first ascent of Zuko traverse (V 5.10+, 650m). The route climbs the large corner immediately to the left of Los esclavos del barometro and to the right of...
Via Ladri
Via Ladri - Campanile Basso
7a
Established in late autumn and early winter - from 2005 onwards - to avoid rocks falling onto the famous Bocchette via ferrata and the Via Normale, Via Ladri now offers cleaned rock, beautiful in most parts, with the final pitches...
Saga di Valle Bavona
Saga di Valle Bavona - Gendarm de Gramüsèd
8a+
205m high climb established by Stephan Isensee and Thomas Wolf up Gendarm de Gramüsèd, to the left of Il mito della Caverna with difficulties in the region of 7c+/8a.
Die Ritter der Kokosnuss
Die Ritter der Kokosnuss - Großer Falkenstein
7b+/S1/II
Established in autumn 2012 ground-up by Isidor Poppeller and Vittorio Messini, this climb presents difficulties up to 7b+ and joins the other 6 multi pitches on the 120m high face.
Waiting for the sun behind the moon
Waiting for the sun behind the moon - Parete dei Falchi

Dedicated to Sole who was born in June, their Waiting for the sun behind the moon offers varied climbing up a series of slabs, cracks and corners. Pitch 2 offers a bombè roof which still need freeing - presumably at...
Schwarze Madonna
Schwarze Madonna - Untersberg
8a+
Established ground-up in 2008, Black Madonna was freed in 2012 by Papert. The route offers "absolutely sensational climbing up really compact limestone" and is currently the hardest outing on the Untersberg.
La beffa
La beffa - Cima Cason di Formin
7a+/7b
Established by Massimo Da Pozzo and Pier Francesco Smaltini in September 2012, La beffa (the joke) gets it's name from the fact that the drill batteries dies two bolts short of the summit, forcing Mox to return to finish off...
Buon compleanno Nat
Buon compleanno Nat - Cima Cason di Formin
6c+
Buon compleanno Nat is the name given to the July 2012 route up Cason de Formin established by tireless Massimo Da Pozzo together with another “Scoiattolo”, Marco Alberti “Panza” and their friend Danilo Serafini, with whom Mox had established via...


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