The routes

Dedicated to Sole who was born in June, their Waiting for the sun behind the moon offers varied climbing up a series of slabs, cracks and corners. Pitch 2 offers a bombè roof which still need freeing - presumably at...

Established ground-up in 2008, Black Madonna was freed in 2012 by Papert. The route offers "absolutely sensational climbing up really compact limestone" and is currently the hardest outing on the Untersberg.

Established by Massimo Da Pozzo and Pier Francesco Smaltini in September 2012, La beffa (the joke) gets it's name from the fact that the drill batteries dies two bolts short of the summit, forcing Mox to return to finish off...

Buon compleanno Nat is the name given to the July 2012 route up Cason de Formin established by tireless Massimo Da Pozzo together with another “Scoiattolo”, Marco Alberti “Panza” and their friend Danilo Serafini, with whom Mox had established via...

Established in 2011 ground-up during 12 days, the route takes a 700m line just to the left of Via Italia on Reissend Nollen and ascends "perfect limestone".

Demanding rock climb up excellent rock, with 9 stainless steel bolts up the pitches + bolts at the belays with abseil rings. The first bolt is located at circa 30m height and tied off with an orange sling.

The obvious Capo d’Uomo arête exerts a strong draw as you observe it from the path that leads to this ridge, and gives the impression that it sinks straight down into the sea. I was very torn about whether to...

Forged from the ground-up over three summers, with the use of bolts and without fixed ropes (a bivy was made beneath the summit). The climbing during the first ascent was done free between one bolt and the next (where we...

Beautiful traditional route, athletic and sustained despite its short length. It was established by Giovannino Massari and Andrea Parodi in July 1982, in two attempts, using almost exclusively nuts (including the belays) except for 3 pegs on Pitch 1 and...

We believe our route is harder than Martini-Leoni-Tranquillini because of run-out and sustained climbing. The line is really amazing,  always following arête more or less, and in some places this feels really exposed. In general the rock is very good...

The route breaches the smooth central slabs with some sustained aid (the third pitch is currently the hardest of its kind in this mountain chain). Plan for a bivy (a good site is the 4th belay at the large ledge)....

Demanding new rock climb up the South Face of Presolana first ascended ground-up on 9 August 2012 by Daniele Natali and Stefano Codazzi. The route follows an amazing series of vertical pocketed slabs up fantastic limestone for 150m with difficulties...

5 pitch starting variation to Via Leber Kenedi (Federico Michielli & Michele Da Pozzo, 1990) established by Cortina Mountain Guides Giovanni Zanettin together with his brother Federico and Aldo Vascellari, to the left of Leber Kenedi and to the right...

Beautiful route which climbs a line between the famous routes Brunsin and Plitschka up a repulsive yellow pillar past compact, overhanging virgin rock. The 6 pitches were equipped trad style. The belays are good with in-situ gear (in total 9...

Difficult and exposed climbing leads through the yellow eastern pillar of Cima dell’Auta, nicknamed “Pilastro Parmenide” after the famous philosopher Elea. The first section climbs free a series of slabs to the base ledge of the rock face, then continues...

Route established ground-up by Fabio Failla and Luigi Fiolcam on 02/06/2012. The climbing varies from cracks, corners, slabs and overhangs. The rock is particularly good quality apart from a few sections where it is still somewhat loose. The central section...