Via Bonatti al Croz del Rifugio - Croz del Rifugio
Copia link
Edoardo Falletta
1 / 9
Via Bonatti al Croz del Rifugio
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Walter Bonatti, 1951
By
Edoardo Falletta
Length
200m
Difficulty
ED
The line climbs 200m up the grey and yellow limestone that characterises the impressive Croz amphitheater in Valle Stretta above Bardonecchia. The first and last pitches are splendid and are testament to Bonatti's route finding ability. On the whole the rock is very solid except for a section immediately below the top that requires particular care.
Getting there
From Bardonecchia, head towards Colle della Scala, cross the dam and at the fork keep right and head into Valle Stretta. After a few hairpin bends you enter the Militi plateau (with its sector of single pitch climbs). Continue past this and reach a hut, park here. Access
Cross the river and follow the path uphill, once past the landslide turn right at a red arrow painted on a boulder, then follow the easy path to reach the base of the wall. Coast the wall leftwards to enter the typical amphitheater, the route starts 20 metres to the left of the right arete. 10 minutes. Descent
From the grassy ledge reach the last bolt belay of the route "Re-Maggi"; abseil off this down right and enter the scree gully. Scramble up this to reach the obvious path (cairns), follow this to reach an exposed legge (bolts have been added here for safety). Walk along this to reach a chain, abseil off this to the single-pitch sector and the base of the face. 10 minutes. Gear
Set of camalot BD, twin mid size, #1 and # 2 for the belays. Pegs and hammer not needed.
From Bardonecchia, head towards Colle della Scala, cross the dam and at the fork keep right and head into Valle Stretta. After a few hairpin bends you enter the Militi plateau (with its sector of single pitch climbs). Continue past this and reach a hut, park here. Access
Cross the river and follow the path uphill, once past the landslide turn right at a red arrow painted on a boulder, then follow the easy path to reach the base of the wall. Coast the wall leftwards to enter the typical amphitheater, the route starts 20 metres to the left of the right arete. 10 minutes. Descent
From the grassy ledge reach the last bolt belay of the route "Re-Maggi"; abseil off this down right and enter the scree gully. Scramble up this to reach the obvious path (cairns), follow this to reach an exposed legge (bolts have been added here for safety). Walk along this to reach a chain, abseil off this to the single-pitch sector and the base of the face. 10 minutes. Gear
Set of camalot BD, twin mid size, #1 and # 2 for the belays. Pegs and hammer not needed.
See all photos
Comments
No comments yet...
Beauty
First ascent
Walter Bonatti, 1951
By
Edoardo Falletta
Length
200m
Difficulty
ED
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
14/08/2013 - Alpinism
Via Bonatti on Croz del Rifugio, a rediscovery above Bardonecchia Edoardo Falletta talks about his discovery of Via Bonatti, established by Walter Bonatti solo in 1951 up Croz del Rifugio above Bardonecchia in Piemonte, Italy.