Lisetta - Col dei Bos
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Andrea Simonini
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Lisetta
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Giacomo Duzzi, Lorenzo Moretto, Andrea Simonini 13/14/22 July 2013. FFA: 22/07/13
By
Andrea Simonini
Orientation
SE
Length
250m
Difficulty
7b+ RS3
Obligatory difficulty
7a
Route
Pleasant climb that breaches the steep yellow section up the centre of the SE Face of Col dei Bos, to the left of Via Francesa put up by Paolo Da Pozzo and Giuseppe Ghedina.
Getting there
Coming from Cortina, park 1 km before Passo Falzarego at the house “Ra Nona”. Access
Walk along path #412 through the forest to the old military road, from here head right for 30m and then immediately left onto a path that winds its way along a small stream, past pine trees and scree slope to the base of the mountain and the start of via Alverà. From here continue right and scramble up the short scree slope to reach the base of the route (50m to the left of via Francesca).
Tot.: 35/40 minutes circa, yellow peg withkevlar thread at the base. Itinerary
P1: 30m, VI+ (6a) 3 pegs 1 bolt
P2: 25m, V+ (5a), 2 pegs
P3: 35m, IX- (7b+) 1 peg, 8 bolts
P4: 15m, VI+ (6a), 2 pegs, 1 bolt
P5: 50m, VIII (7a), 4 pegs, 4 bolts
P6: 30m, VIII (7a+), 1 peg 3 bolts
P7: 25m, VI (5c), 3 pegs
P8: 35m, VII- (6a+), 2 bolts Descent
Abseil down the route or walk down path #402 from the col at Col dei Bos.
Coming from Cortina, park 1 km before Passo Falzarego at the house “Ra Nona”. Access
Walk along path #412 through the forest to the old military road, from here head right for 30m and then immediately left onto a path that winds its way along a small stream, past pine trees and scree slope to the base of the mountain and the start of via Alverà. From here continue right and scramble up the short scree slope to reach the base of the route (50m to the left of via Francesca).
Tot.: 35/40 minutes circa, yellow peg withkevlar thread at the base. Itinerary
P1: 30m, VI+ (6a) 3 pegs 1 bolt
P2: 25m, V+ (5a), 2 pegs
P3: 35m, IX- (7b+) 1 peg, 8 bolts
P4: 15m, VI+ (6a), 2 pegs, 1 bolt
P5: 50m, VIII (7a), 4 pegs, 4 bolts
P6: 30m, VIII (7a+), 1 peg 3 bolts
P7: 25m, VI (5c), 3 pegs
P8: 35m, VII- (6a+), 2 bolts Descent
Abseil down the route or walk down path #402 from the col at Col dei Bos.
See all photos
Comments
29/06/2014 arsen Senfter
Ripetuta qualche giorno fa.
A me la via non é piacuta. Roccia a tanti tratti troppo friabile, vengono fuori anche pezzi grandi.
Peccato, perché il tiro di chiave sul muro giallo sarebbe bello!
Per quanto riguarda le difficoltá:
Il tiro di 7b secondo me é 7a, magari 7a .
Il 7a si cambia sempre perché si butto fuori ogni volta almeno un appiglio, quindi difficile proporre una difficoltá.
Il 6c secondo me é un 6b .
Meglio fare la via di Francesca.....
27/07/2013 Luciano Calvelo
La roccia e a tratti molto marcia. Il tiro di 7b e al massimo un 7a, senza dubbio non di più. Quelli di 7a sono intorno al 6b. Con tante vie belle in giro non merita sprecare una giornata facendo una via del genere. Non dubito che gli apritori hanno avuto una bellissima avventura e si sono divertiti tanto.
Beauty
First ascent
Giacomo Duzzi, Lorenzo Moretto, Andrea Simonini 13/14/22 July 2013. FFA: 22/07/13
By
Andrea Simonini
Orientation
SE
Length
250m
Difficulty
7b+ RS3
Obligatory difficulty
7a
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
26/07/2013 - Climbing
Lisetta, new rock climb up Col dei Bos in the Dolomites Last July Andrea Simonini, Giacomo Duzzi and Lorenzo Moretto made the ground-up first ascent of "Lisetta" (250m, IX-, 7b+) up Col dei Bos, Fanis, Dolomites.