The routes

Nuvole Bianche was first ascended after 3 attempts, two in 2014 and one in 2016. The hardest part of the route are definitely the first three pitches through the yellow section, that requires good degree of fitness. We returned in...

Even though this is the easiest route described in this chapter, it is without a doubt one of the nicest. Fixed protection is lacking so bring wires and possibly even pegs and a hammer. The start and first two pitches...

Outstanding climbing in an extraordinarily beautiful setting. The route climbs smooth slabs immediately to the left of the classic 1968 Gogna route, and offer technical climbing up rock reminiscent of that found on Marmolada or in the Rätikon. The route...

A superb, independent line up the lefthand side of Cima Grande, marked by its – almost always – comfortable belays. While the climb was put up in 2010 by Hannes Pfeifhofer and Daniel Roger, the first one-day ascent was carried out...

Opus Pocus on Piz Seràuta on the Marmolada is a hybrid route with a series of pitches which differ completely from one another. The first pitch for example is a classic mountain pitch on good rock which needs trad pro,...

This is a highly rewarding climb up excellent rock. Bolts were placed on lead. The route takes the center line up the Mur de Pisciadù, a large yellow and black wall. Most of the 10 pitches are solid 6b/c, and...

Osttiroler Marende climbs the east pillar of Rienzwand in Riental, below the Tre Cime di Lavaredo. Completely bolted, it provides excellent rock and varied climbing up to 7b.

The climbing is both technical and strenuous, but never excessively so, on excellent rock. Bolts were placed on lead and even though a rack isn't really necessary, some small wires may be found useful. The numerous ledges ensure that the...

Beautiful route up the NW Face of the Castelletto. The route, bolted from the ground up during the first ascent, is equipped with 10mm bolts.

A modern route which, given it’s grade, good protection and excellent rock, is destined to become a classic. The route takes trad pro but the belays were bolted on lead and the pitches contain numerous pegs, nevertheless take a selection...

A pumpy and sustained climb that follows the superb slabs to the right of Via Classica, successfully avoiding two roofs and breaching a final overhang. The large roof is the crux and this can be climbed free (7a+) or aided....

The West Face takes a line to the right of Diedro Dallago, up solid but sometimes dirty rock. It initially follows a series of corners, before continuing up an obvious crack which forks high up beneath the yellow roof. The...

Parole e pensieri - words and thoughts - climbs good rock up the 250m steep face which is clearly visible from the cable car which leads from Cortina to Ra Valles.

Petri Heil is a beautiful rock climb up excellent rock in an amazing setting. The route climbs close to the famous Demuthkante up the lefthand side of the North Face of Cima Ovest di Lavaredo.

This short route is significantly harder than Dallago and rises up the large pillar that characterises the wall, tackling the most compact and best rock. From the top of the pillar it shares the same finish as Dallago, but alternatively...

Piccolo Principe is a mix between traditional and modern: traditional for the protection (pegs and natural pro along the pitches, bolts on the belays), and modern due to the direct line which searches for the beauty of climbing up the...