Primo Spigolo (Alverà-Pompanin) - Tofana di Rozes
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An extremely popular mid-grade route. It initially follows the large corner at the base of the arête, then continues up slightly to the left of the arête, before moving right to avoid the roofs. This traverse and corner above constitute the crux. The first pitch is difficult, too, but can be avoided by climbing an easier variation to the left. From the large ledge the route continues first left, then right onto the arête before reaching the top via a series of chimneys.
Drive to Rifugio Dibona, at the foot of the Tofana di Rozes. This is reached from Cotina by driving towards Passo Falzarego, past Pocol and few hairpin bends, and turning off right up onto the dirt track following signs for the refuge.
AccessStart in the corner at the base of the arête. From the rifugio Dibona walk to the arête, situated before the Pilastro. Allow about 30 minutes for the walk-in.
DescentTraverse along the ledge towards the Punta Marietta and then walk down the scree and ledges to the base of the buttress, and then walk around this on exposed terrain. Now descend past huge boulders to the rifugio Giussani.
GearBring a set of wires, friends and threads.
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