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Pilastro Nord - Cima Tosa

Italy>Trentino - Alto Adige>Dolomites>Brenta Dolomites>Cima Tosa

Francesco Salvaterra, Mountain Guide

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Pilastro Nord

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

Paolo Baroldi, Filippo Mosca, Francesco Salvaterra 3-4/09/2016

Francesco Salvaterra, Mountain Guide

Orientation

North

Length

700m

Difficulty

VI-

Route

Great route on the right arête of north-east face of Cima Tosa. The climb has three distinct sections: the starting chimney (often wet), the gray central pillar and the wonderful and vertical final pitches that breach the overhangs and lead to the top.

Despite the relatively easy technical difficulties, Pilastro Nord is a serious undertaking because of its length, distant gear and sections of poor quality rock that is difficult to protect.

Ideal for those in search of an adventure, in particular in autumn before the snow plasters the wall.

Access
From Rifugio Brentei reach the base of Canalone Neri, scramble up this (not particularly steep) to below the obvious Y-shaped chimney. Start a few meters to the lef to of the chimney (waterfall), passing the stepped terrain. Descent
Down the Normal Route along the South Face. (II, two short abseils, difficult route finding). Gear
Friends to #2, microfriends, pegs and hammer. 10 pegs were used and left in-situ; plenty of threads and slings over flakes. Notes
In August 1981 Berta Piercarlo and Gianni Giudicati made a serious attempt climbing almost the same route, stopping just below the finishing overhangs and abseiling down the route. We gathered this information at Rifugio Brentei; just one thread was found in-situ.