The routesClassic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
An... Ice Surprise - Combe Maudite
M7, WI5, A1+, III
A very demanding route which requires a good level of familiarity with drytooling and placing gear. It has the potential of becoming a classic route in its genre.
C'est trop facile - Aiguille du Toula
TD-, M6 e AI4+
A pleasant narrow couloir just a stone's throw from the Skyway cable car. Six pitches lead past difficulties in the region of TD-, M6 and AI4+ to the 3,534-meter summit of Aiguille de Toule.
Cascata del Monzino - Mont Blanc
3+
Pleasant ice climb to the right of the via ferrata that leads to the Monzino hut in Val Veny on the Italian side of Mont Blanc. Repeats will require a period of intense cold and no snow above the drip...
Cosmiques Arête - Aguille du Midi
II, AD, 4a.
The Cosmiques Arête is one of the most famous and popular climbs in the Mont Blanc massif, and quite rightly so. Excellent granite, exposure, incredible scenery and mid-grade mixed climbing (with some challenging sections thrown in) are the ingredients of...
Couloir Noire - Mont Noir de Peutérey
AI4, M5
Interesting mixed climbing on the NE Face of Mont Noir de Peuterey. Pitches of ice and compact snow lead to into the steep snow couloir, while the upper section provides pleasant mixed climbing through the gully to reach the ridge...
Cuori di ghiaccio - Grand Flambeau
TD+, M6/6+
Great climb up Gran Flambeau, past thin ice and lots of mixed terrain.
El Chico - Pyramide Du Tacul
M6+ 4°
El Chico" ascends the NNE Face of Pyramide Du Tacul and combines the routes "Pinelli-Sabbadini" and "Lenoir" to finish up the last pitch of the classic "Ottoz" route.
Fancy of Peckers - Col du Peigne
M5+ R
After some fun initial pitches, the route connects the snowy gully of Full Love... for dry and ice with the exit of the 1942 Livacic - Martinetti route, of which there is little news about "winter garb" repeats, apart from...
Full Love... for dry and ice - Aiguille du Peigne
V, 5+,M6 R
This winter outing, described by Griffith as "simply awesome" follows the upper half of a very rarely – if ever - repeated British route established in summer 1967 by James Fullalove and Brian Robertson with the use of difficult aid...
Goulotte Bournier Vogler - Aiguille du Midi
III/4 M
Easy ascent at altitude. The fast approach and easy return render this an ideal climb to get to know the area.
Goulotte Laratoun - Grand Capucin
III/4+ M5
Fun climb in a great alpine setting close to the Grand Capucin.
Goulotte Perroux Profit - Aiguille du Midi
III/4 M5
Nice climb at altitude. The fast approach and easy return render this a classic outing in the Mont Blanc range.
Happy Birthday - Aiguille de l'Évêque
AI4, M6, ED
Happy Birthday winds its way up a long couloir, past ice runnels and compact snow up the righthand side of the south face of Aiguille de l'Évêque in the Grandes Jorasses group of the Mont Blanc massif. 1000m high, it...
Jottnar - Mont Blanc
VIII, 8
Jottnar is a tricky, not obvious line. A blank canvas of corners and grooves leading back up towards the top of the Cosmiques Arete": four pitches with difficulties up to Scottish grade VIII,8. The 60m fourth pitch leads right onto...
Koala Pirla - Grand Flambeau
TD+, M6
Beatuiful, logical climb up Gran Flambeau; modern style with some delicate moves.
Kuffner Ridge - Frontier Ridge - Mont Maudit
IV / D / 55°
One of the most beautiful and classic ridge traverses in the Mont Blanc massif, set in the magnificent high altitude ambient. Varied, up mixed terrain and with snowy sections that are deciedly knife-edge and airy (Gino Buscaini).Were we to define...
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