Cuori di ghiaccio - Grand Flambeau
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Cuori di ghiaccio: Grand Flambeau, Mont Blanc. In yellow Monia Mena, in red Cuori di ghiaccio
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Sergio Fiorenzano, Ezio Marlier 25/10/2019
By
Ezio Marlier, Mountain Guide
Orientation
East
Height
3535m
Difficulty
TD+, M6/6+
Great climb up Gran Flambeau, past thin ice and lots of mixed terrain.
Getting there
Reach Courmayeur in Italy and take the Skyway cable car up to Rifugio Torino. Access
From the Torino hut head towards Colle Flambeau, a few hundred meters before on the left head towards the wall. The face is on the left, 5 min from the refuge. The route starts 30m before the arete. Starting altitude 3360m. Itinerary
P1: 25m nice pitch with sections of M5, bolt belay with sling on ledge in the middle of the gully
P2: 30m M7 start up overhang, fairly difficult to get established above this (bolt on the left above the overhang), then gully and not easy exit, bolt at exit and bolted belay with sling
P3: 45m classic winter difficulties, 50° leftwards to the base of the gully, bolt belay with sling on the right
P4: 45m follow the (wonderful) gully and then continue up wide open slopes
P5: 45m classic winter difficulties up to an obvious triangle where the line joins the last belay of Koala pirla Descent
Abseil down the route. Gear
Friends up to BD blue, set of nuts, slings. Two 50m half ropes. Ice screws are pratically useless here.
Reach Courmayeur in Italy and take the Skyway cable car up to Rifugio Torino. Access
From the Torino hut head towards Colle Flambeau, a few hundred meters before on the left head towards the wall. The face is on the left, 5 min from the refuge. The route starts 30m before the arete. Starting altitude 3360m. Itinerary
P1: 25m nice pitch with sections of M5, bolt belay with sling on ledge in the middle of the gully
P2: 30m M7 start up overhang, fairly difficult to get established above this (bolt on the left above the overhang), then gully and not easy exit, bolt at exit and bolted belay with sling
P3: 45m classic winter difficulties, 50° leftwards to the base of the gully, bolt belay with sling on the right
P4: 45m follow the (wonderful) gully and then continue up wide open slopes
P5: 45m classic winter difficulties up to an obvious triangle where the line joins the last belay of Koala pirla Descent
Abseil down the route. Gear
Friends up to BD blue, set of nuts, slings. Two 50m half ropes. Ice screws are pratically useless here.
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Beauty
First ascent
Sergio Fiorenzano, Ezio Marlier 25/10/2019
By
Ezio Marlier, Mountain Guide
Orientation
East
Height
3535m
Difficulty
TD+, M6/6+
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