The routesClassic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Kalipe - Peitlerkofel
M6
Kalipe is a sustained mixed climb up the North Face of Peitlerkofel with a crux pitch that is difficult to protect. Five pitons were placed, only at the belays.
Pelmoon - Monte Pelmo
M7, AI5, WI5
Mixed climb up the north of the Pelmo, established over 2 days. Pelmoon starts up the obvious gully to the right of Forca rossa gully. A bolt on the right gully wall has been placed at the start of the...
No Country for Old Men - Koflerbach
M9 / WI5
Demanding mixed climb immediately to the left of Räuber Hotzenplotz and therefore to the left of the famous icefall Koflerbach close to Sand in Taufers. Pitches 3 and 4 offer some challenging mixed climbing past thin ice. The crux on...
La Bestia - Cima del Focobon
AI5+, 90°
Alpine outing up the north face of Focobon, offering great but somewhat severe climbing due to the poor pro. La Bestia is technically harder but offers more pro with cams on the rock. Both La Bella and La Bestia ascend...
La Bella - Cima del Focobon
AI5+, 90°
Alpine outing up the north face of Focobon, offering great but somewhat severe climbing due to the poor pro. La Bestia is technically harder but offers more pro with cams on the rock. Both La Bella and La Bestia ascend...
Ultimo Minuto - Langental
WI5+, M6
Mixed variation to the famous icefall La Piovra. Ultimo Minuto climbes the first pitch of La Piovra di Destra, ie the righthand branch of the drip, then protected by 5 bolts tackles a 20m section of rock to reach the...
Spirito di adattamento - Aiguille Rouges de Rochefort
WI5 X R, left variation WI4 M5
Spirito di adattamento climbs a gully up the east face of Aiguille Rouges de Rochefort. The climb was established by Denis Trento and Andrea Peron and a direct version was added by Trento with Marco Farina and Marco Majori.
Selvaggia Sorte - Cima Tosa
M5+, WI5+
A unique winter climb on a wild and severe face, in an indescribable setting.
Räuber Hotzenplotz - Koflerbach
M9 / WI5
Difficult mixed climb to the left of the famous icefall Koflerbach close to Sand in Taufers. The final 6 meters on the last pitch require huge power and stamina.
Utopia - Rastentalfall
M7+/WI5
"One of the most beautiful routes I know of these difficulties. The combination of rock, ice and frozen turf make it unique." Utopia was climbed onsight, without adding bolts, all pegs used were left in-situ.
CRAM - Circolo Ricreativo Aziendale Mountime - Cima Brenta
AI5, M6, 90°
This winter climb follows an evident drip of ice up the entire face, past some mixed sections on the first pitches.
It is often possibile to protect yourself on rock using Friends (we recommend an entire rack plus some micro friends)....
Sonnentanz - Langental
WI5+ M7+
Mixed route in Langental / Vallunga that climbs through the big cave to the left of lluminati. Three pitches of water ice are followed by a mixed pitch which, protected by 6 bolts, breaches the grotto. A further two ice...
Filo d'Ambiez - Cima d'Ambiez
AI, VI-
Beautiful winter climb up the NW Face of Cima d'Ambiez in the Brenta Dolomiteds. The new mixed climb is a direct version of Passaggio Solista, established by Tomas Franchini solo in May 2013. The first two pitches are exteremely difficult...
Siamo fuori dal Tunnel - Cima Grostè
M10, WI5+
Established on 2 and 5 December ground-up, this new climb is sustained and offers sections of mixed climbing followed by total dry up solid, often overhanging rock. The line we chose climbs to the right of Via Deserto dei Tartari...
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