La Bestia - Cima del Focobon
Copia link
Alessandro Beber, Mountime
1 / 2
La Bestia: Cima del Focobon, Dolomites: Matteo Faletti, Marco Pellegrini, Marco Zanni in action
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Matteo Faletti, Marco Pellegrini, Marco Zanni 08-09/01/2019
By
Alessandro Beber, Mountime
Orientation
Northeast
Length
265m
Height
3054m
Difficulty
AI5+, 90°
Route
Alpine outing up the north face of Focobon, offering great but somewhat severe climbing due to the poor pro. La Bestia is technically harder but offers more pro with cams on the rock. Both La Bella and La Bestia ascend to the right of Spigolo Nord, a summer rock route established in 1962 by Dino Fontanive and Paolo Fauri. The drips can not be seen from the Mulaz Refuge; conditions can be checked by ascending 400m towards Falcade.
Getting there
Reach Val Venegia. Access
From Val Venegia reach Rifugio Mulaz; possibility to sleep in the winter room, sleeps 12. From here continue to below Cima Focobon and coast the mountain to reach the base of the drips below the NE Face. Descent
The belays on both routes are bolted, except for the last one on La Bella which is made on 3 threads, and the last one of Bestia on Abalakov, seeing that the battery of the drill took flight! Gear
Complete winter rack. Notes
First repeat Paolo Baroldi and Giuseppe Vidoni 13/01/2019. The two climbed the last pitch direct, past little ice, AI 6
Reach Val Venegia. Access
From Val Venegia reach Rifugio Mulaz; possibility to sleep in the winter room, sleeps 12. From here continue to below Cima Focobon and coast the mountain to reach the base of the drips below the NE Face. Descent
The belays on both routes are bolted, except for the last one on La Bella which is made on 3 threads, and the last one of Bestia on Abalakov, seeing that the battery of the drill took flight! Gear
Complete winter rack. Notes
First repeat Paolo Baroldi and Giuseppe Vidoni 13/01/2019. The two climbed the last pitch direct, past little ice, AI 6
Comments
No comments yet...
Beauty
First ascent
Matteo Faletti, Marco Pellegrini, Marco Zanni 08-09/01/2019
By
Alessandro Beber, Mountime
Orientation
Northeast
Length
265m
Height
3054m
Difficulty
AI5+, 90°
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
14/02/2019 - Alpinism
Beauty and the Beast in the Pale di San Martino, Dolomites Winter climbing in the Dolomites: Simone Banal and Matteo Faletti report about their first ascents, on 8 and 9 January 2019 of 'La Bella' (265m AI5+, 90°) and ‘La Bestia'...