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Assessing the danger of bolts at coastal crags. A proposal by Maurizio Oviglia
27/02/2026 - Climbing
Assessing the danger of bolts at coastal crags. A proposal by Maurizio Oviglia
The safety of bolts on climbs close to the sea remains a very important issue, not only at the crags and multipitch routes on Sardinia and those overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, but also elsewhere. To avoid future accidents due to bolt failure, Maurizio Oviglia calls for greater awareness among all...
The route that doesn't exist on Cima Brenta by Silvestro and Tomas Franchini
26/02/2026 - Alpinism
The route that doesn't exist on Cima Brenta by Silvestro and Tomas Franchini
Silvestro Franchini recounts the first ascent of 'La via che non c'è' (M5/5+, 400m) on the northwest face of Cima Brenta in the Brenta Dolomites. Established with his brother Tomas Franchini on 02/06/2012, it is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful mixed climbs in the entire...
On Cerro Walwalün in Chile's Cochamó Valley Mirco Grasso & Jernej Kruder establish the big wall Tarock
24/02/2026 - Climbing
On Cerro Walwalün in Chile's Cochamó Valley Mirco Grasso & Jernej Kruder establish the big wall Tarock
On Cerro Walwalun in the Cochamó Valley, Chile, the international team composed of Italy's Mirco Grasso and Slovenia's Jernej Kruder opened and subsequently freed 'Tarock', a big wall climb with difficulties up to 7c.
Une histoire d'amitié added to Roc de Garnesier at Dévoluy in France by Melvin Bou, Kilian Moni
22/01/2026 - Alpinism
Une histoire d'amitié added to Roc de Garnesier at Dévoluy in France by Melvin Bou, Kilian Moni
On 20/01/2026 French alpinists Melvin Bou and Kilian Moni made the first ascent of 'Une histoire d'amitié' on the huge, untouched west face of Roc de Garnesier close to Lus-la- Jarjatte in France. This is their second new climb in the Dévoluy massif this season after 'Saute Aure et God...
Renato Casarotto's historic first winter ascent of Diedro Cozzolino on Piccolo Mangart in the Julian Alps
06/01/2026 - Alpinism
Renato Casarotto's historic first winter ascent of Diedro Cozzolino on Piccolo Mangart in the Julian Alps
We are reproducing, courtesy of the Gorizia section of the Italian Mountaineering Club, the account of the historic first winter ascent of 'Diedro Nord' of Piccolo Mangart di Coritenza in the Julian Alps. Also referred to as 'Diedro Cozzolino', this dihedral was climbed solo by the Italian alpinist Renato Casarotto...
Natural Logic established on Cima Busazza (Italy) by Emanuele Andreozzi, Stefano Falezza
27/12/2025 - Alpinism
Natural Logic established on Cima Busazza (Italy) by Emanuele Andreozzi, Stefano Falezza
On 14/12/2025 Emanuele Andreozzi and Stefano Falezza made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'Natural Logic' on the north face of Cima Busazza in the Adamello – Presanella group of the Italian Alps. Andreozzi provides the details.
Azzardo Estremo on Sckem Braq in Pakistan by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo
04/12/2025 - Alpinism
Azzardo Estremo on Sckem Braq in Pakistan by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo
Matteo De Zaiacomo recounts the first ascent in August 2024, with Chiara Gusmeroli, of 'Azzardo Estremo' on Sckem Braq in the Nangma Valley in Pakistan. 900 metres long, the route was opened alpine style and consists of 26 pitches with difficulties up to 7a and A3.
Successful women's SAC Expedition establishes new climbs in Greenland
03/12/2025 - Alpinism
Successful women's SAC Expedition establishes new climbs in Greenland
In August 2025 a women's expedition comprised of Naomie Bürki, Pauline Laubscher, Gianna Müller, Caro North, Lea Schneider, Melanie Tenorio, Ramona Volken, and Ramona Waldner established a host of new climbs in the Graah Fjord and the Skjoldungen Fjord areas of Greenland. The alpinists travelled by fair means, ie public...
Mukatila established on Jebel Nassrani South in Wadi Rum, Jordan, by Nicole Berthod & Fay Manners
21/11/2025 - Climbing
Mukatila established on Jebel Nassrani South in Wadi Rum, Jordan, by Nicole Berthod & Fay Manners
Nicole Berthod & Fay Manners have made the first ascent ‘Mukatila’ on the north face of Jebel Nassrani South in Wadi Rum, Jordan.
Simon Gietl, Ines Papert make first free ascent of Lumina on Wildgall
18/11/2025 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Ines Papert make first free ascent of Lumina on Wildgall
South Tyrolean mountain guide Simon Gietl and Germany's Ines Papert have made the first free ascent of 'Lumina' on the NE Face of Wildgall / Collaspro 3273m, (Rieserferner Group, Tauern Alps). The mixed climb was established solo by Gietl earlier this year.
Rob Matheson and 'The Bells, The Bells!' interview
14/11/2025 - Interviews
Rob Matheson and 'The Bells, The Bells!' interview
Interview with British climber Rob Matheson who, aged 74, in April 2025 made an audacios repeat of 'The Bells, The Bells!', one of the most fearsome trad climbs in Great Britain. Located on North Stack Wall at Gogarth, it has only seen a handful of repeats since its first ascent...
Lone Wolves on Rocca di Nambrone (Presanella) established by Stefano Campanini, Matteo Terzi
23/10/2025 - Climbing
Lone Wolves on Rocca di Nambrone (Presanella) established by Stefano Campanini, Matteo Terzi
The report by Stefano Campanini who on 24 August 2025, together with Matteo Terzi, established 'Lupi Solitari' (Lone Wolves), a new rock climb on the Rocca di Nambrone, in the Adamello-Presanella range of the Italian Alps.
New climb on iconic Campanile di Val Montanaia (Dolomites) by Fabio De Cesero, Luca Vallata
01/10/2025 - Alpinism
New climb on iconic Campanile di Val Montanaia (Dolomites) by Fabio De Cesero, Luca Vallata
The report by Luca Vallata, a mountain guide from Belluno, who together with Fabio De Cesero established 'La Poderosa', a route that climbs the famous North Overhangs of Campanile di Val Montanaia in the Friulian Dolomites. The climb is dedicated 'to all the good people in Gaza and the West...
Il Tempo Sospeso added to Furcia Rossa III in the Dolomites
15/09/2025 - Climbing
Il Tempo Sospeso added to Furcia Rossa III in the Dolomites
Earlier this summer Luca Ducoli and Leo Gheza made the first ascent of 'Il Tempo Sospeso' on the south face of Furcia Rossa III in the Fanis Dolomites. Gheza reports.
Simon Gietl & Alexander Huber add Appassionata to Heiligkreuzkofel, Dolomites
12/09/2025 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl & Alexander Huber add Appassionata to Heiligkreuzkofel, Dolomites
On the west face of Heiligkreuzkofel / Sass dla Crusc in the Dolomites Simon Gietl and Alexander Huber have made the first ascent of 'Appassionata'. The route was established without bolts and difficulties up to IX+, and is considered a direct start to 'Loss lei, heb schun' (Renato Botte, Helmut...
First climb established on Mt. Phandambiri in Mozambique
12/08/2025 - Climbing
First climb established on Mt. Phandambiri in Mozambique
In Mozambique, Mirco Grasso and Samuele Mazzolini have established 'O caminho dos cogumelos' on the east face of Mount Panda, also known as Phandambiri. Nearly 900 meters high and graded 7a, this is the first route on this granite monolith. The two climbers are part of a larger expedition that...

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