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Big new climb on Eiger North Face by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel
31/08/2023 - Alpinism
Big new climb on Eiger North Face by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel
From 19-24 August Swiss alpinists Silvan Schüpbach and Peter von Känel made the first ascent of Renaissance, a big new climb on the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland. The pair climbed the 1220m line without the use of bolts.
Dolomites Cima Grande di Lavaredo x 600 for Heini Gütl
28/08/2023 - Alpinism
Dolomites Cima Grande di Lavaredo x 600 for Heini Gütl
The other day the 69-year-old mountain guide from Sexten, South Tyrol, Italy Heini Gütl reached the summit of Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo group of the Dolomites for the 600th time
The day comes to Coston d'Averau (Dolomites) thanks to Michal Coubal, Anna Coubalová, Martin Tučka
24/08/2023 - Alpinism
The day comes to Coston d'Averau (Dolomites) thanks to Michal Coubal, Anna Coubalová, Martin Tučka
The report and route topo of 'Utúlie‘n Aurë' (8-/RS3/I), the new multi-pitch first ascended in mid-July on the West Face of Coston d'Averau (Nuvolau, Dolomites) by Czech mountaineers Michal Coubal, Martin Tučka and Anna Coubalová.
Swift Tre Cime di Lavaredo double for Jernej Kruder: Pan Aroma and Spanish route
14/08/2023 - Alpinism
Swift Tre Cime di Lavaredo double for Jernej Kruder: Pan Aroma and Spanish route
The report by Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder who earlier this summer made quick repeats of two hard climbs at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites: Panaroma (8b+, 500m) on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo and the Spanish route on Cima Grande di Lavaredo (8b+, 550m).
Via Lisa added to Torre d'Ambiez in Italy's Brenta Dolomites by Alberto Bettoli, Francesco Salvaterra
07/08/2023 - Alpinism
Via Lisa added to Torre d'Ambiez in Italy's Brenta Dolomites by Alberto Bettoli, Francesco Salvaterra
The report by Italian mountain guide Francesco Salvaterra who on 10 September 2022 made the first ascent of Via Lisa on the east face of Torre d'Ambiez above Val d'Ambiez in the Brenta Dolomites.
Back in Black climbed on Torre Colfosco in Val Badia (Dolomites) by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
25/07/2023 - Alpinism
Back in Black climbed on Torre Colfosco in Val Badia (Dolomites) by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
On Torre Colfosco in Val Badia (Dolomites, Italy) Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of the new multi-pitch Back in Black.
Big new climb on Spiz d'Agner (Dolomites) by Nicolò Geremia, Mirco Grasso
10/07/2023 - Alpinism
Big new climb on Spiz d'Agner (Dolomites) by Nicolò Geremia, Mirco Grasso
At Punta Frassenè on Spiz d'Agner (Dolomites, Italy) Nicolò Geremia and Mirco Grasso have made the first ascent of Barbari nel TAO (IX+/X-, 500m). Both describe this multi-pitch as 'one of the most beautiful and fun routes' they know.
Alaska Big Wall: possible new climb up Cemetery Spire (Kichatnas) by Silvia Loreggian, Stefano Ragazzo
19/06/2023 - Alpinism
Alaska Big Wall: possible new climb up Cemetery Spire (Kichatnas) by Silvia Loreggian, Stefano Ragazzo
Italian mountaineers Silvia Loreggian and Stefano Ragazzo have established what is likely to be a new climb on Cemetery Spire in the Cathedral Spires group of the Kichatna mountains in Alaska. Gold Rush (600m, 5.12a A1+) was climbed with one bivy from 4 to 6 June 2023.
Stefano Ragazzo completes winter solo of Moulin Rouge on Rotwand, Dolomites
03/04/2023 - Alpinism
Stefano Ragazzo completes winter solo of Moulin Rouge on Rotwand, Dolomites
On 17 March 2023 Stefano Ragazzo made a solo ascent of 'Moulin Rouge' on Roda de Vael (2806m) in the Rosengarten group of the Dolomites, Italy. After the first winter ascent in 2005 by Nicola Tondini and Nicola Sartori, this is likely to be the first winter solo of this...
New mixed climb on Aiguille de la Brenva in Mont Blanc massif by Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra, Giovanni Ravizza
31/03/2023 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Aiguille de la Brenva in Mont Blanc massif by Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra, Giovanni Ravizza
On 6 March 2023 the Italian mountain guides Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra and Giovanni Ravizza made the first ascent of 'Nati Liberi' on the east face of Aiguille de la Brenva, in the Mont Blanc massif. Bruni reports.
Pizzo Badile Corti-Battaglia first winter ascent by David Hefti, Marcel Schenk
02/03/2023 - Alpinism
Pizzo Badile Corti-Battaglia first winter ascent by David Hefti, Marcel Schenk
On 14 February 2023 Swiss mountaineers David Hefti and Marcel Schenk made the coveted first winter ascent of the Corti-Battaglia route on Pizzo Badile (3308m). Established in 1953 by Claudio Corti and Felice Battaglia, this climb was the first to breach the mountain's east face. Schenk, who in 2016 established...
Grandes Jorasses: Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines race up the legendary Gousseault-Desmaison
20/02/2023 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines race up the legendary Gousseault-Desmaison
On 15 February 2022 French alpinists Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines needed less than 10 hours to climb the difficult ‘Gousseault-Desmaison’ on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses. First ascended by René Desmaison and Serge Gousseaut in 1971, this is a difficult, historic and rarely repeated line up the...
New mixed climb on Aiguille Noire du Peuterey by François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Stefano Stradelli
17/02/2023 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Aiguille Noire du Peuterey by François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Stefano Stradelli
From the 12th to 13th of February 2023, Italian alpinists François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre and Stefano Stradelli established Couloir Isaïe, a new mixed climb on Punta Brendel on the west face of the Aiguille Noire du Peuterey (3,773 m) in the Mont Blanc massif.
François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Stefano Stradelli dream the unimaginable on Mont Blanc du Créton
09/02/2023 - Alpinism
François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Stefano Stradelli dream the unimaginable on Mont Blanc du Créton
On 30/02/2023 Italian alpinists François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Stefano Stradelli made the first ascent of 'Sognando l’inimmaginabile' on the East Face of Mont Blanc du Créton (3406m, Petites Murailles, Italy). 600 meters high, the new mixed climb is graded WI 4+ M7.
Big new mixed climb on Aiguille de l'Évêque (Grandes Jorasses) by Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection, Giuseppe Vidoni
02/02/2023 - Alpinism
Big new mixed climb on Aiguille de l'Évêque (Grandes Jorasses) by Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection, Giuseppe Vidoni
On 28 January 2023 Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection and Giuseppe Vidoni made the first ascent of the new mixed climb 'Happy Birthday' (1000m, AI4, M6 , ED) on the South Face of Aiguille de l'Évêque (Grandes Jorasses, Mont Blanc massif).
In Val Badia (Dolomites) Simon Gietl, Aaron Durogati, Davide Prandini establish Felsenkeller
18/01/2023 - Alpinism
In Val Badia (Dolomites) Simon Gietl, Aaron Durogati, Davide Prandini establish Felsenkeller
On Mt Somamunt in the tiny Antersasc valley above Longiarù / Campill in Val Badia (Dolomites) Simon Gietl, first with Aaron Durogati then with Davide Prandini, made the first ascent of the mixed climb Felsenkeller'.

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