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Farewell to Gioachino Gobbi, grand Grivel president
20/11/2024 - Alpinism
Farewell to Gioachino Gobbi, grand Grivel president
Gioachino Gobbi, the Italian alpinist and great entrepreneur who in the 1980s relaunched the prestigious Grivel mountain equipment brand, has died aged 79.
Michelle Dvorak and Fay Manners rescued on Chaukhamba III
08/10/2024 - Alpinism
Michelle Dvorak and Fay Manners rescued on Chaukhamba III
On Sunday 6 October 2024 Michelle Dvorak from the USA and Fay Manners from Great Britain were rescued on Chaukhamba III in northern India. The pair were attempting a new route on the mountain's SE buttress.
First ascent of Muchu Chhish in Karakoram by Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
25/07/2024 - Alpinism
First ascent of Muchu Chhish in Karakoram by Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
Climbing alpine style from 1-6 July 2024, Czech mountaineers Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh and Zdeněk Hák completed the first ascent of Muchu Chhish (7,453m) in the Karakoram, Pakistan. Hák reports about the climb up the peak famed for having been the...
Puro Floro added to Nevado Copa in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
18/07/2024 - Alpinism
Puro Floro added to Nevado Copa in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito have made the first ascent of 'Puro Floro' on the SE Face of Nevado Copa (6190) in Peru.
New mixed climb on Nevado Pisco in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
18/06/2024 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Nevado Pisco in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito have completed the first ascent of 'Pisco Sour' on the SW Face of Nevado Pisco (5780m) in Peru. The 640m mixed route breaches difficulties up to 85°/M6 and was climbed in a 20-hour...
Genís Zapater Bargués, Alastair Mcdowell complete Aoraki Traverse in New Zealand in 26 hours
24/04/2024 - Alpinism
Genís Zapater Bargués, Alastair Mcdowell complete Aoraki Traverse in New Zealand in 26 hours
In November 2023 mountain guides Genís Zapater Bargués and Alastair Mcdowell completed the Aoraki - Mt Cook Traverse in New Zealand in just over a day. Also referred to as the Grand Traverse and involving 55km, 4,500m+ elevation gain across...
Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completes solo Torres del Paine skyline traverse
02/04/2024 - Interviews
Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completes solo Torres del Paine skyline traverse
Interview with Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll after the first traverse of the four main peaks of the Torres del Paine massif in Patagonia, Chile. The Belgian alpinist climbed Torre Sur, Torre Central, Torre Norte and La Peineta solo from 23 -...
Variety is the spice of life / An all-female ascent of the Gervasutti-Gagliardone on the Grandes Jorasses
29/03/2024 - Alpinism
Variety is the spice of life / An all-female ascent of the Gervasutti-Gagliardone on the Grandes Jorasses
Austrian alpinist Barbara Vigl reports about a repeat of the 'Gervasutti-Gagliardone' on the East Face of the Grandes Jorasses, Mont Blanc massif, carried out in July 2023 by Vigl with Anna Truntschnig and Anna Zechling. Apart from possibly being the...
Martin Feistl finds his Daily Dose of Luck on Hammerspitze in Pinnistal, Austria
12/03/2024 - Alpinism
Martin Feistl finds his Daily Dose of Luck on Hammerspitze in Pinnistal, Austria
Without a rope, alone, into the unknown. Martin Feistl reports about the solo first ascent of the mixed climb 'Daily Dose of Luck' (400m, WI 5, M4) established on 24 January 2024 on Hammerspitze in Pinnistal, a small side valley...
Huge Langkofel Dolomites first ascent by Martin Feistl, Simon Gietl
27/02/2024 - Alpinism
Huge Langkofel Dolomites first ascent by Martin Feistl, Simon Gietl
On 2 and 3 February Martin Feistl and Simon Gietl made the first ascent of Aura (M6 AI5, 1200m) a new mixed climb on the northeast face of Langkofel / Sassolungo above Val Gardena in the Dolomites.
Fay Manners and Tom Lafaille ski big new line on Aiguille d’Argentiere
Fay Manners and Tom Lafaille ski big new line on Aiguille d’Argentiere
On 17 February Fay Manners and Tom Lafaille made the first ski descent of the Arête Charlet Straton on Aiguille d’Argentiere in the Mont Blanc Massif. Manners reports about the 5.4 line they have called 'Stratonspherique'.
Spectacular new ice climb in Val Ombretta opposite Marmolada (Dolomites)
22/12/2023 - Alpinism
Spectacular new ice climb in Val Ombretta opposite Marmolada (Dolomites)
Emanuele Andreozzi and Vaida Vaivadaite have established 'First Time', a spectacular new ice climb in Val Ombretta directly opposite the south face of the Marmolada in the Dolomites, Italy.
Cool Chobutse climb in Nepal completed by Wadim Jabłoński, Maciej Kimel
19/12/2023 - Alpinism
Cool Chobutse climb in Nepal completed by Wadim Jabłoński, Maciej Kimel
Climbing alpine style from 14 - 18 October 2023, Polish alpinists Wadim Jabłoński and Maciej Kimel established 'Just Breathe' (M5 WI4 R/X 1600m) on the NE Pillar of Chobutse / Tsoboje (6686m) in the Rolwaling Himalaya of Nepal.
Marva Peak in Peru climbed by Marek Radovský, Ďuri Švingál
26/09/2023 - Alpinism
Marva Peak in Peru climbed by Marek Radovský, Ďuri Švingál
Marek Radovský reports about a climbing expedition with Ďuri Švingál to the Cordillera Blanca in Peru from 15/07/2023 to 15/08/2023. In the Taulliraju massif the Slovakian mountaineers managed to establish 'The Line under the sky' (6b M6+ 1100m) on a...
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
22/09/2023 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2022. The honoured ascents will receive the 2023 Piolets d'Or award during the celebration in Briançon, France, from...
Nadir Maguet sets new FKT on Grandes Jorasses, 3:19 round trip via the Normal Route
14/07/2023 - Alpinism
Nadir Maguet sets new FKT on Grandes Jorasses, 3:19 round trip via the Normal Route
Interview with Nadir Maguet who set a new ascent and descent record on the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif on Monday 10 July 2023. The 29-year-old Italian athlete climbed the Normal Route from Planpincieux (Courmayeur - Val Ferret)...