Saro Costa and the Ticino Alps 42 x 3000ers enchainment

The project was simple: climb all 42 3000 meter peaks of the Ticino Alps, moving exclusively on foot, trying to do so with as few breaks as possible, as light as possible, in search of fluidity and progression in the mountains.

The reason for this is not to be an hour or a day faster, but to try - even for just a few moments - to feel like a chamois. To look at the horizon and try to touch it, experience long days and tire yourself out to feel good.

Discovery and re-discovery of these mountains, many of which I had never climbed before, while others I knew well both in summer and winter. Climbing them on this occasion was both special and satisfying.

With snow already at high altitude and unstable weather, everything proved more tiring than I'd originally planned, and every day ice axe and crampons proved indispensable. Originally I thought of moving almost only with trail shoes, but the conditions made me change my plans.

The main characteristics of these mountains and the wild environment, the large differences in altitude between the valleys and the summits, and the fact that these peaks are rarely visited. On paper the technical difficulties are never too demanding, and the names of the mountains are not particularly famous, but the undertaking is not to be underestimated and it is essential to know how to move off-trail and on loose terrain, across very steep meadows and endless scree that put your legs to the test. And then there are sharp crests and glaciers that, although in retreating quickly, still display their breathtaking beauty.

I dreamt of this enchainment for a long time since I was a boy, reading the beautiful guides of the Ticinese Alps by Giuseppe Brenna. An author of days gone by, like Gino Buscaini or Maurice Brandt, people capable of talking about the the mountains in a complete and passionate way, where the routes and the difficulties are just some of the elements that mix with the history of mountaineering, toponymy, geology and personal observations. Their words are capable of making you set off to explore these territories.

My friend Giacomo Meneghello decided to embark on this mission and support me in many aspects, from the logistics to preparing food in the hut, from photographic documentation of some of the ascent to climbing many peaks with me. His help was indispensable, without him I would not have got so far.

During twelve days, nine of which were active and three enforced rest due to bad weather, I traveled 274 km and negotiated 24,764 meters of altitude difference past ridges and glaciers, woods and pastures, snow, rock, earth and asphalt. A semicircle from east to west following the Alps, from Dandrio in Val Malvaglia to Dalpe in Leventina, passing through Lucomagno, Airolo and Val Bedretto.

In addition to the personal satisfaction of testing myself from a psychophysical point of view, this project also aimed to promote the Ticino mountains. The area still holds wild and little-frequented areas where you can find adventure close to home. Adula, Basodino and Pizzo Rotondo are names known to many, but Vernokhörner, Cavergno and Crozlina perhaps less so.

We set off after long rainy days with low expectations and hostile weather, but step by step we were rewarded for our efforts. During the first three days we covered the eastern area, from the Adula region to Piz Terri, then the fourth day was used for the north-eastern area from Greina to the Passo del Lucomagno, the fifth day for the north-western area up to Val Bedretto where on the sixth day we decided to stop due to bad weather. Three days later, with the onset of high pressure, we resumed the enchainment from All’Acqua to visit the remaining areas, namely Pizzo Gallina, Basodino and the Campo Tencia group in the heart of Ticino.

Of the 42 peaks I'd set out to climb, I didn't summit Kastelhorn due to too much snow and lack of daylight. A complete, single push enchainment of all the peaks still remains to be completed. For those interested in the tracks and routes, all the stages are visible on Strava.

by Saro Costa
Saro thanks Ski Trab, Karpos, CAMP, Ledlenser for the technical support

Listed below for clarity is the criteria with which the "3000 Ticinesi" and the selected peaks were chosen. They must have an altitude equal to or greater than 3000 meters, the peak must fall on the cantonal border or within it, preferably with an official name on the Swiss National Map.

MALVAGLIA
Cima dei Cogn 3062m
Cima Rossa 3161m
Piz Piotta 3121m
Puntone dei Fracion 3202m
Rheinquellhorn 3200
Vogelberg 3217m
Pizzo Cramorino 3133m
Pizzo Baratin 3036m
Logia 3079m

ADULA
Adula 3402m
Grauhorn 3259m
Punta dello Stambecco 3106m
Piz Jut 3129m
Cima di Fornee 3054m
Piz Cassimoi 3128m
Cima d’Aquila 3127m
Pizzo Cassinello 3102m
Blattaberg 3041m
Vernokhorner 3041m
Torrone di Garzora 3017m

GREINA
Piz Terri 3149m
Piz Gaglianera 3121m
Piz Valdraus 3096m
Piz Medel 3209m
Cima di Camadra 3173m
Pizzo del Corvo 3015m
Scopi 3190m

CADLIMO
Piz Rondadura 3016m
Piz Blas 3019m

BEDRETTO
Pizzo Pesciora 3120m
Gerenhorn 3076m
Pizzo Rotondo 3192m
Chuebodenhorn 3070m
Pizzo Gallina 3060m

BASODINO
Tamierhorn 3087m
Basodino 3273m
Pizzo Cavergno 3223m
Kastelhorn 3128m (non salito)

TENCIA
Pizzo Crozlina 3010m
Pizzo Campo Tencia 3071m
Pizzo Tenca 3036m (senza nome sulla CN)
Pizzo Penca 3040m

 

 

 

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