Michelle Dvorak and Fay Manners rescued on Chaukhamba III

Michelle Dvorak from the USA and Fay Manners from Great Britain have been rescued on unclimbed Chaukhamba III in the Gangotri group of India’s Garhwal Himalaya. The pair had been attempting to forge a new route on the mountain's formidable SE buttress but after climbing for five days past steep and complex terrain, on the 2nd of October a falling rock cut their tagline, sending their haulbag into the void. This contained their "key safety equipment", ie tent and stove, down pants, crampons, ice axes and headtorches.

The climbers were located at 6400m and, aware of their predicament, they sent an SOS to emergency services and began their descent. Poor weather hindered rescue operations and on both Friday and Saturday Indian Air Force helicopters failed to locate Dvorak and Manners despite conducting multiple sorties, and on Saturday four State Disaster Response Force (SDRF) members were deployed at ABC 4,990 meters in hopes of launching a ground search operation. In the meantime Dvorak and Manners descended carefully on their own accord, between white outs and snow storms, with very little sleep, food or water.

Thankfully a Group Militaire de Haute Montagne expedition was operating in the same area and the breakthrough came on Saturday afternoon when the French alpinists finally located the two women; after reaching them and providing essential supplies, the French helped Dvorak and Manners them cross the glacier without their crampons or ice axes. Early on Sunday morning an Indian Air Force helicopter flew to 5,300 meters, approximately 300 meters above advanced base camp, and flew the women to safety.

Dvorak and Manners are seasoned alpinists and have climbed together on various occasions. In 2022 the pair climbed the huge Cassin Ridge on Denali in Alaska as well as Bacon and Eggs on Mini-Mini-Moonflower, while in summer 2023 they made numerous first ascents in Greenland together. Their attempt on unclimbed Chaukhamba III should be viewed as an extremely fine and committing alpine-style ascent by a tiny two-woman team. Knowing the climbers, they will be back in the future to complete unfinished business.

Link: explorersweb.com, HDry