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Ondrej Húserka perishes on Langtang Lirung in Nepal
04/11/2024 - Alpinism
Ondrej Húserka perishes on Langtang Lirung in Nepal
Slovakian mountaineer Ondrej Huserka died last week while descending Langtang Lirung in Nepal, shortly after having made the first ascent of the huge East Face with Marek Holeček. Born in 1990, he was widely regarded as one of the leading...
New multipitch climb on Pedra Longa in Sardinia
21/10/2024 - Alpinism
New multipitch climb on Pedra Longa in Sardinia
Mountain guide Josef Hilpold has made the first ascent of 'Giai amus a obiare' (6b, 155m) on Pedra Longa in Sardinia.
Rare repeat of Grand Diedre Desplomando on Trango Tower, the Nameless Tower of the Karakorum
10/09/2024 - Alpinism
Rare repeat of Grand Diedre Desplomando on Trango Tower, the Nameless Tower of the Karakorum
Earlier this summer an international team comprised of Martin Krasňanský, Michal Mikušinec and Tomáš Buček from Slovakia and František Bulička from the Czech Republic made a rare repeat of 'Grand Diedre Desplomando' on Trango Tower, aka Nameless Tower, Karakorum, Pakistan....
Stefano Ragazzo makes climbing history with first Eternal Flame rope solo
02/08/2024 - Alpinism
Stefano Ragazzo makes climbing history with first Eternal Flame rope solo
Italian alpinist Stefano Ragazzo has made the first rope-solo ascent of Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower (6251m) in the Trango Tower group in Pakistan. The most famous big wall at altitude was established in 1989 by Kurt Albert, Wolfgang...
Tommaso Lamantia summits K2, his first 8000er
30/07/2024 - Alpinism
Tommaso Lamantia summits K2, his first 8000er
On 28 July 2024, Italian mountaineer Tommaso Lamantia summited K2 (8611m). The 42-year-old mountaineer, who is member of the CAI Biella expedition, climbed alone and without supplementary oxygen
New climb added to Piz Badile by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo
17/07/2024 - Alpinism
New climb added to Piz Badile by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo
On 29 June 2024 the Italian mountaineers Chiara Gusmeroli and Matteo De Zaiacomo made the first ascent of 'Æterna nix' (VIII, 200m) on the NE Face of Pizzo Badile.
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
03/07/2024 - Climbing
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter...
Hochflachkofel Hexentango climbed by Simon Gietl, Jakob Steinkasserer
03/07/2024 - Alpinism
Hochflachkofel Hexentango climbed by Simon Gietl, Jakob Steinkasserer
On 30 April 2024 Jakob Steinkasserer and Simon Gietl made the first ascent of 'Hexentango' (WI 4+, M 4+, 55°, 500m) on the west face of Hochflachkofel in the Rieserferner Group in South Tyrol, Italy. Steinkasserer reports.
Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál climb new routes in Peru
02/07/2024 - Alpinism
Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál climb new routes in Peru
Slovakian mountaineers Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál have climbed various new rock climbs and mixed routes in the Cordillera Blanca area in Peru. Radovský reports.
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
01/07/2024 - Alpinism
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
From the MOdiSCA archive an iconic photo taken by the Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition documenting the first ascent of the west face of Cerro Torre in Patagonia in 1974: the fifth Lecco Spider on the mountain's summit, with Casimiro...
Budapest makes and breaks Paris 2024 Olympic dreams
28/06/2024 - Competitions
Budapest makes and breaks Paris 2024 Olympic dreams
Eddie Fowke reports about the second and final Olympic Qualifying Series that took place in Budapest, Hungary, from 20 to 23 June. Stakes were extremely high as after Shanghai this represented the last chance for 24 Combined Boulder & Lead...
Paraclimbing to be included in the LA 2028 Paralympic Games
27/06/2024 - Competitions
Paraclimbing to be included in the LA 2028 Paralympic Games
Following a thorough evaluation by LA28, the IPC Governing Board approved the Organising Committee’s proposal to include Para climbing into the 2028 Paralympic Games in Los Angeles, USA.
14 Speed climbers qualified for Paris 2024 Olympic Games
22/06/2024 - Competitions
14 Speed climbers qualified for Paris 2024 Olympic Games
Budapest OQS has confirmed who will go to the Olympic Games this summer: Yafei Zhou, Aleksandra Kalucka, Rajiah Sallsabillah, Capucine Viglione, Manon Lebon, Leslie Adriana Romero Perez, Beatrice Colli and Wu Peng, Veddriq Leonardo, Amir Maimuratov, Zach Hammer, Reza Alipour...
New mixed climb on Nevado Pisco in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
18/06/2024 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Nevado Pisco in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito have completed the first ascent of 'Pisco Sour' on the SW Face of Nevado Pisco (5780m) in Peru. The 640m mixed route breaches difficulties up to 85°/M6 and was climbed in a 20-hour...
Meteora: new route on Kapelo Peak dedicated to Dietrich Hasse
11/06/2024 - Climbing
Meteora: new route on Kapelo Peak dedicated to Dietrich Hasse
Vangelis Galanis has made a rope solo first ascent of a new multipitch rock climb on Kapelo Peak in Meteora, Greece. The route is dedicated to Dietrich Hasse, the German climber who pioneered rock climbing in the conglomerate area in...
Uncut: watch Stefano Ghisolfi make first ascent of Excalibur (9b+)
31/05/2024 - Climbing
Uncut: watch Stefano Ghisolfi make first ascent of Excalibur (9b+)
The uncut climbing video of Stefano Ghisolfi making the first ascent of 'Excalibur' (9b+) close to Arco, Italy. Graded 9b+, this checks in as one of the hardest sport climbs in the world

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