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Barbara Zangerl climbs Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco
15/10/2020 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl climbs Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco
Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl has become the first woman to climb Greenspit, the difficult trad route first ascended by Didier Berthod in Valle dell’Orco, Italy.
Nebelgeist climbed by Simon Messner, Barbara Vigl on Schüsselkar, Austria
25/09/2020 - Alpinism
Nebelgeist climbed by Simon Messner, Barbara Vigl on Schüsselkar, Austria
Barbara Vigl reports about the first ascent of Nebelgeist, established this summer with Simon Messner on Söllerköpfe on Schüsselkar in Austria's Wetterstein mountain chain.
Heinz Mariacher, mountaineering, freedom and the Paul Preuss Award
02/09/2020 - Alpinism
Heinz Mariacher, mountaineering, freedom and the Paul Preuss Award
The report and words about mountaineering from the Paul Preuss Prize, awarded to the Austrian mountaineer Heinz Mariacher celebrated at Reinhold Messner's Firmian Castle. Mariacher is the eighth alpinist to receive the prestigious award after Messner himself, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert...
Leo Gheza makes solo ascent of Central Pillar of Frêney
16/08/2020 - Alpinism
Leo Gheza makes solo ascent of Central Pillar of Frêney
Italian mountaineer Leonardo Gheza reports about his solo ascent of the Central Pillar of Frêney in the Mont Blanc massif on 6/08/2020. This might well be the first solo ascent in just a single day. In any case it was...
Paraclimbers Massimo Coda, Andrea Lanfri summit Mont Blanc
14/08/2020 - Alpinism
Paraclimbers Massimo Coda, Andrea Lanfri summit Mont Blanc
Interview with Andrea Lanfri who climbed Mont Blanc via the normal Italian route with Massimo Coda. In all likelihood they are theirs is the first paraclimbing partnership to achieve this undertaking.
Barbara Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher make first repeats of Beat Kammerlander’s Rätikon Kampfzone
09/08/2020 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher make first repeats of Beat Kammerlander’s Rätikon Kampfzone
On 06/08/2020 Barbara Zangerl made the first repeat of Kampfzone, an 8b+ multi-pitch in the Rätikon first ascended by Beat Kammerlander ground-up in 2013 and freed in 2017. Jacopo Larcher followed suit yesterday.
Ben Moon / The British rock climbing legend interview
31/07/2020 - Interviews
Ben Moon / The British rock climbing legend interview
Interview with British rock climber Ben Moon, one of the world’s greatest rock climbers throughout the 1980’s and early 1990’s with landmark first ascents such one of Britain’s first 8a, Statement of Youth at Lower Pen Trwyn in Wales and...
Catherine Destivelle awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award
23/07/2020 - Alpinism
Catherine Destivelle awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award
French mountaineer Catherine Destivelle will become the first woman to receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland in September. In the past the coveted prize has been awarded to greatest mountaineers of...
Sardinia rock climbing: Aleksandra Taistra repeats big multi-pitches Unchinos and Amico Fragile
21/07/2020 - Climbing
Sardinia rock climbing: Aleksandra Taistra repeats big multi-pitches Unchinos and Amico Fragile
In Sardinia the Polish rock climber Aleksandra Taistra has repeated two difficult multi-pitches: Unchinos at Badde Pentumas and Amico Fragile at Monte Donneneittu.
Federica Mingolla simply Incroyable on Mont Blanc’s Red Pillar of Brouillard
21/07/2020 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla simply Incroyable on Mont Blanc’s Red Pillar of Brouillard
Italian mountaineer Federica Mingolla reports about the first integral ascent, with Leonardo Gheza, of Incroyable, the rock climb established just a few days ago on the Pilier Rouge du Brouillard in the Mont Blanc massif by Matteo della Bordella, François...
Wolkenreise, a journey through the clouds in the Dolomites
24/06/2020 - Alpinism
Wolkenreise, a journey through the clouds in the Dolomites
Enrico Maioni, Cortina Mountain Guide, introduces Wolkenreise, a multi-pitch alpine sports climb Pilastro di Misurina in the Cadini Group of the Italian Dolomites, first ascended in 2017 by Peter Manhartsberger and Stefan Kopeinig and dedicated to Florian Thamer.
Multicolor: new multi-pitch rock climb in Val Pramper, Zoldo Dolomites
10/06/2020 - Alpinism
Multicolor: new multi-pitch rock climb in Val Pramper, Zoldo Dolomites
On Monte Petorgnon in Val Pramper in the Zoldo Dolomites, Daniele Geremia, Santiago Padrós and Fulvio Trentini have made the first ascent of Multicolor (280m, 7a+)
Laura Rogora first Italian woman to climb 9a+, Pure Dreaming Plus at Arco
31/05/2020 - Climbing
Laura Rogora first Italian woman to climb 9a+, Pure Dreaming Plus at Arco
At the crag Massone in Arco, Italy, Laura Rogora repeated Pure Dreaming Plus, a 9a+ sports climb first ascended by Adam Ondra. The Roman climber is now the first Italian woman, and only the fifth woman in the world after...
Paul Robinson climbs 1000 boulders 8A or harder
20/05/2020 - Interviews
Paul Robinson climbs 1000 boulders 8A or harder
Interview with American rock climber Paul Robinson who recently managed to climb his 1000th boulder problem graded 8A or harder.
Moscow European Climbing Championships 2020 rescheduled to October
24/04/2020 - Competitions
Moscow European Climbing Championships 2020 rescheduled to October
The International Federation of Sport Climbing has announced that the European Climbing Championships will take place in October, while the first three stages of the Lead World Cup 2020 scheduled for July have been postponed.
Matterhorn guides raise over €14,000 with charity sale of historic Échelle Jordan ladder
21/04/2020 - Alpinism
Matterhorn guides raise over €14,000 with charity sale of historic Échelle Jordan ladder
The Italian Matterhorn Guides have raised € 14,631 with the sale of the historic Échelle Jordan, the original rope ladder used by thousands of mountaineers on their way to the summit of the Matterhorn. The money will go to charities...

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