Monte Colodri, Arco: Via per Giuliano established by Marco Pellegrini, Francesco Salvaterra

A new route on Colodri, no bolts, just traditional pegs. It’s hard to believe, given the web of routes that have sprung up over the most beautiful peak in Arco, and yet...

The idea came to mind when repeating the nearby Charlie Chaplin, a rarely repeated masterpiece put up by Maurizio Giordani. Marco Pellegrini and I immediately realised that there was enough space for a new route, but we wanted to be sure not to end up on unknown routes or on someone else’s project, so we opted for an abseil inspection. We did this at night, so that we could remove the choss without annoying anyone.

When we spoke to Giuliano Stenghel about the project, he too was surprised. It would have been nice to go and repeat it together, once completed. Unfortunately it wasn’t to be.

The route is dedicated to him, the first to establish a route up the south face (via Agostina, first ascended in 1986 with Giorgio Vaccari) and one of the major new routers in the Sarca valley.

We hope this small dotted line on a photo will remind future generations this man and his climbing style that helped inspire generations of climbers.

by Francesco Salvaterra

Salvaterra thanks: Climbing Technology, Ferrino, SCARPA, Salice Occhiali

Info: www.francescosalvaterra.com, FB Francesco Salvaterra