Dolomites Nasswand reveals its Surprise to Martin and Manuel Baumgartner

We’d been observing this interesting ice formation for the last two years. It can be seen from the road, but because it received a fair bit of sun, it’s only on a few days each year that it forms sufficiently to dare to give it a go. Last week the time had finally come and we wanted to make an attempt before the ice thundered back down into the valley.

The lower part of the drip, which is hidden from view, provided very good ice meaning that we juicily climbed up to where we wanted to be, in the middle of the gorge.

After a 60m pitch up rock and ice we reached the dagger, but after just a few meters and a couple of pegs we realised that the temps were too high, causing the ice to detach from the rock below. It was simply too warm to try the direct line we’d planned on doing.

However, we discovered a chimney on the lefthand side of the gorge and much to our amazement there was some ice in the back of it, perfectly protected from the sun's rays. What followed were two amazing pitches up steep ice.

by Manuel Baumgartner

Manuel thanks: Edelrid

TOPO:  Surprise, Nasswand, Dolomites