1500 News found

Interview with Johnny Dawes, one of the most talented and influential British climbers of all times.

The North Ridge of Aguja Guillaumet (2579m) in the Fitz Roy massif in Patagonia was first climbed in 1981 by the Argentines Eduardo Brenner and Eduardo Moschioni. Damiano Barabino, Sergio De Leo and Marcello Sanguineti repeated the route on 8 December 2011 and finished up the Amy route.

From the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses to Patagonia. Corrado "Korra" Pesce's alpine journey, introduced by Rolando Garibotti in this meeting and interview - from one alpinist to another - in El Chalten

Some climbs seem timeless due to their importance in the history of alpinism. One of these is certainly Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy in Patagonia. The story by Damiano Barabino, Sergio De Leo, Marcello Sanguineti.

Austrian climber David Lama has made the first repeat of Woher Kompass (8a+, 120m) and has freed Vamos a la playa (six pitches, 8b+) above Cevio in Switzerland's Tessin.

On 06/11/2011 Patrick Matros established Archon, an 8b trad route in the Frankenjura, Germany.

Maurizio Manolo Zanolla and his new routes at two small, lost crags, Baule and Bilico high up in the Dolomites, for a climbing which is far removed from the usual perspectives.

An interview with British mountaineer Mick Fowler after the first ascent of Gojung (6310m) in Nepal, Himalaya together with Dave Turnbull.

The 2011 "andesimo" season in Patagonia has begun in earnest with a great ascent of the rarely repeated West Face of Cerro Torre at the hands of Michael Lerjen-Demjen from Zermatt and Korra Pesce from Chamonix who chose to ascend the famous Ragni route (1500m, AI5+ M4 MI6 mushroom...

British climber Jordan Buys has made the first repeat of the gritstone route Loaded E8 7a at Ilkley Quarry, while his wife Naomi Buys made the first female ascent of Snap Decision E7 6c.

German climber Heiko Queitsch has climbed the famous Frankenjura routes Fight Gravity (by Kurt Albert) and Chasin the Train (by John Bachar) without using the bolts but with trad gear.

Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall have climbed Century Crack at Canyonlands, USA, without pre-placed gear

Jean-Pierre "Peewee" Ouellet has made the first ascent of Necronomicon 5.13d/5.14a beneath the White Rim Trail in Canyonlands, USA.

On 17/10/2011 Riccardo Scarian carried out the first free ascent of Shakti (200m, max 8b+/8c, obl. 7c/8a), the route he had established in August 2011 with various partners up the SW Face of Picco delle Aquile, Monte Coppolo, Valnuvola.

David Lama, Stephan Siegrist, Denis Burdet and Rob Frost have established a new route up the NW Face via their Yoniverse to reach the summit of Cerro Kishtwar (6155m), Himalaya. Siegrist and Burdet then ascended the nearby untouched 6040m peak White Saphire.

A German team of climbers comprised on Jörg Helfrich, Manuel Hofmann, Till Kramann and Alexander Stahl have put up Hungarob Combination (370m, 7c, 6c oblig) on the Orabeskopf, Brandberg massif, Namibia. Trip report by Manuel Hofmann.