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Roland Hemetzberger frees climb in the Wilder Kaiser
27/11/2012 - Climbing
Roland Hemetzberger frees climb in the Wilder Kaiser
On 03/10/2012 Roland Hemetzberger made the first free ascent of "Relikt Noichl Wörndl" (350m, 8b/8b+) in Austria's Wilder Kaiser mountain chain.
Aladaglar, two new Turkish rock climbs by Larcher, Giupponi, Sartori
26/11/2012 - Alpinism
Aladaglar, two new Turkish rock climbs by Larcher, Giupponi, Sartori
In July and August 2012 Italian climbers Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori returned to Turkey's Aladaglar massif where they established and freed "Nessuno" (470m, 8a+ max, 7b obligatory) up the North Face of Cima Vay Vay and "Radio Eksen" (200m, 7c max, 7a+ obligatory) in the Cimbar Valley.
Climbing and the Rio de Janeiro favelas
25/11/2012 - Climbing
Climbing and the Rio de Janeiro favelas
Asa Firestone and the Centro de Escalada Urbana, the climbing initiative to help children living in the favela in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.
Croz del Rifugio, new routes and reequipping in the Brenta Dolomites
21/11/2012 - Alpinism
Croz del Rifugio, new routes and reequipping in the Brenta Dolomites
On the North Face of Croz del Rifugio (Brenta Dolomites) Italian Mountain Guide Franco Nicolini has put up two new routes and reequipped the belays of his Via Elena (1988) as well as Via Bregtie, first climbed in 1963 by Cesare Maestri and Ernesto Carafoli.
Fitz Roy, important East Face new route by Ackermann and Lerjen-Demjen
20/11/2012 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy, important East Face new route by Ackermann and Lerjen-Demjen
On the East Face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia Switzerland’s Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Argentina’s Jorge Ackermann have made the first ascent, in alpine style, of Un Mar de Suenos (1200m, 7a, A3, M4).
Capo Pecora, Italy's most exotic trad climbing area
19/11/2012 - Climbing
Capo Pecora, Italy's most exotic trad climbing area
Maurizio Oviglia discusses the latest developments at Capo Pecora and the new trad climbs in Sardinia, Italy.
Mick Fowler and the ascent of Prow of Shiva
16/11/2012 - Alpinism
Mick Fowler and the ascent of Prow of Shiva
A short interview with British mountaineer Mick Fowler who, together with Paul Ramsden, climbed the stunning new route Prow of Shiva ED+ up Mt. Shiva (6,142m), India.
Hotel Supramonte, do masterpieces age? The story of extraordinary maintenance of an extraordinary climb
14/11/2012 - Climbing
Hotel Supramonte, do masterpieces age? The story of extraordinary maintenance of an extraordinary climb
Maurizio Oviglia reports about the recent rebolting of the famous rock climb Hotel Supramonte. Established in 1998/99 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani, Sardina’s famous multi-pitch has now been restored to its former glory by Larcher and Oviglia, with the new stainless steel bolts placed (obviously) in exactly the same...
Sardinia, 4 new rocks climbs on Monte Oddeu
12/11/2012 - Climbing
Sardinia, 4 new rocks climbs on Monte Oddeu
Four new rock climbs have seen the light of day in the Monte Oddeu massif (Dorgali, Sardinia). These 200m outings are entirely bolt protected, climb, splendid rock and fit in to "plaisir" category.
International Master’s Course in Mountain Medicine, the final report by Doctor Luigi Festi
08/11/2012 - Alpinism
International Master’s Course in Mountain Medicine, the final report by Doctor Luigi Festi
The 1st International Master Course in Mountain Medicine will be completed with the final thesis and diploma at the Insubria University. This project, unique and innovative, came to life as a real challenge and involved 14 doctors from all of Italy, combining technical ability with hands on experience and mountain...
Tommy Caldwell and his intense Rätikon and Wenden climbing tour
31/10/2012 - Alpinism
Tommy Caldwell and his intense Rätikon and Wenden climbing tour
Climbing in Europe from the point of view of ace American climber Tommy Caldwell who ascended a series of difficult multi-pitches in Rätikon, Val Bavona and Wenden, including the repeat of Portami Via which included the first ascent of a pitch variation.
New Swiss rock climbs in Greenland's Renland
29/10/2012 - Alpinism
New Swiss rock climbs in Greenland's Renland
This summer a successful Swiss expedition comprised of Jacksch, Ledergerber, Schüpbach and Reist established four long new routes in Renland, Greenland.
Pearson and Ciavaldini climbing in Italy
25/10/2012 - Climbing
Pearson and Ciavaldini climbing in Italy
Video of James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini at Muzzerone in the footsteps of Italian sport climbing history.
Roland Hemetzberger frees Karlspitze Südwand
23/10/2012 - Climbing
Roland Hemetzberger frees Karlspitze Südwand
On 22/10/12 Roland Hemetzberger made the first free ascent of Südwand (150m, 10-) up Karlspitze, Wilder Kaiser, Austria.
L’orologio senza tempo, Punta Figari and Giova Massari's 50th birthday
09/10/2012 - Climbing
L’orologio senza tempo, Punta Figari and Giova Massari's 50th birthday
Last August Giovannino Massari and Paolo Seimandi re-equipped L'orologio senza tempo, the historic rock climb established in 1982 by Massari and Andrea Parodi up the East Face of Punta Figari (Gruppo Castello - Provenzale). The report by Paolo Seimandi.
Puscanturpa Este, new Dutch route in Peru
09/10/2012 - Alpinism
Puscanturpa Este, new Dutch route in Peru
In August 2012 Dutch climbers Bas van der Smeede, Elly van der Plas, Bas Visscher, Vincent van Beek and Saskia van der Smeede established Poco Loco, a new route up the previously unclimbed North Face of Puscanturpa Este (5410m), Andes, Peru. The report by Bas van der Smeede.

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