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Der Grantler, new climb in Valle Cochamo, Chile
01/03/2012 - Climbing
Der Grantler, new climb in Valle Cochamo, Chile
Better late than never: in February 2011 the German climbers Frank Kretschmann and Mario Gliemann established Der Grantler (230m, 6b) up Cerro Trinidad Sur in the "Yosemite of Chile", the Cochamo Valley.
Mont Rochefort, first descent by Capozzi and Bigio on Mont Blanc
Mont Rochefort, first descent by Capozzi and Bigio on Mont Blanc
After years of waiting for the right conditions, on 13/02/2012 Davide Capozzi and the Mountain Guide Stefano Bigio carried out a first ski and snowboard descent on Mont Rochefort (Mont Blanc). The report by Capozzi.
Climbing at Alta Val Aupa
15/02/2012 - Climbing
Climbing at Alta Val Aupa
The crag Alta Val Aupa, 21 routes from 6c - 8a+ close to Tolmezzo (Udine) in NE Italy, introduced by local climber Andrea Polo.
Dani Arnold repeats The Hurting in Scotland
08/02/2012 - Alpinism
Dani Arnold repeats The Hurting in Scotland
Swiss alpinist Dani Arnold has repeated The Hurting XI 11 at Coire an t-Sneachda in Scotland.
David Lama - interview after the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre
07/02/2012 - Interviews
David Lama - interview after the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre
Interview with Austrian alpinist David Lama after the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, carried out on 20 and 21 January 2012 with Peter Ortner.
Will Gadd reports from the Helmcken Falls, Canada
27/01/2012 - Alpinism
Will Gadd reports from the Helmcken Falls, Canada
Will Gadd reports about recent activity at the Helmcken Falls which hosts, amongst others, the magnificent route Spray On. which he established with Tim Emmett.
David Lama frees the Compressor route… while Kruk & Kennedy's bolt chopping is hotly debated
23/01/2012 - Alpinism
David Lama frees the Compressor route… while Kruk & Kennedy's bolt chopping is hotly debated
Yesterday 22/01/2012 David Lama made the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia. The news has been confirmed by David Lama's team. There are no further details but this update will certainly add fuel to the controversy which has followed the bolt chopping carried out recently...
Voie Lesueur, free ascent by Steck and Griffith on Petit Dru
19/01/2012 - Alpinism
Voie Lesueur, free ascent by Steck and Griffith on Petit Dru
On the North Face of Petit Dru (3754m) Ueli Steck and Jonathan Griffith have carried out what is likely to be the first free ascent of the Voie Lesueur (ED3, M8+, 900m) with some drytooling sections and a new variation finish.
Mario Merelli, goodbye to the alpinist from Bergamo
18/01/2012 - Alpinism
Mario Merelli, goodbye to the alpinist from Bergamo
18/01/2012. Mario Merelli died this morning at 8:00am while climbing up Pizzo Redorta (Val Seriana, Bergamo, Italy). Merelli was one of the most famous Italian alpinists and Himalayan mountaineers and one of the driving forces of the Bergamo mountaineering scene.
Non ci resta che piangere, first free ascent by the Riegler brothers
17/01/2012 - Alpinism
Non ci resta che piangere, first free ascent by the Riegler brothers
On 12/01/2012 Florian ande Martin Riegler made the first free ascent of Non ci resta che piangere IX+/X- (Sella, Dolomites).
Nanga Parbat in winter, Moro and Urubko aim to climb route attempted by Messner and Eisendle
13/01/2012 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat in winter, Moro and Urubko aim to climb route attempted by Messner and Eisendle
On 12/01/2012 Simone Moro and Denis Urubko acclimatised at 5400m on the Diamir Face of Nanga Parbat. Their attempt at the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat will be via the line attempted by Messner and Eisendle in 2000, and not via the Kinshofer route.
Severino Scassa and Lorenzo De Bonis and the crag Coup di Rore
11/01/2012 - Climbing
Severino Scassa and Lorenzo De Bonis and the crag Coup di Rore
Severino "Seve" Scassa and Lorenzo De Bonis have freed an old route at the crag Coup di Rore in Val Varaita (Piemonte, Italy). Established with the use of aid during the 1970's, the route breaches the large roof and remained a project until autumn 2011. A story of past and...
Nanga Parbat in winter, Moro and Urubko travel towards their dream
30/12/2011 - Interviews
Nanga Parbat in winter, Moro and Urubko travel towards their dream
Interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko, currently on their way to Nanga Parbat to attempt the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8125m).
The Rise of the Machines, new route on Aguja Poincenot, Patagonia
27/12/2011 - Alpinism
The Rise of the Machines, new route on Aguja Poincenot, Patagonia
Jens Holsten, Joel Kauffman, Mikey Schafer and established Rise of the Machines (VI 5.11 A2+ 900m, 750 new) up the Southwest Face, Aguja Poincenot, Fitz Roy massif, Patagonia.
Johnny Dawes - the rock climbing interview
23/12/2011 - Interviews
Johnny Dawes - the rock climbing interview
Interview with Johnny Dawes, one of the most talented and influential British climbers of all times.
Aguja Guillaumet, Patagonia
15/12/2011 - Alpinism
Aguja Guillaumet, Patagonia
The North Ridge of Aguja Guillaumet (2579m) in the Fitz Roy massif in Patagonia was first climbed in 1981 by the Argentines Eduardo Brenner and Eduardo Moschioni. Damiano Barabino, Sergio De Leo and Marcello Sanguineti repeated the route on 8 December 2011 and finished up the Amy route.

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