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Nanga Parbat in winter, Moro and Urubko travel towards their dream
30/12/2011 - Interviews
Nanga Parbat in winter, Moro and Urubko travel towards their dream
Interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko, currently on their way to Nanga Parbat to attempt the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8125m).
The Rise of the Machines, new route on Aguja Poincenot, Patagonia
27/12/2011 - Alpinism
The Rise of the Machines, new route on Aguja Poincenot, Patagonia
Jens Holsten, Joel Kauffman, Mikey Schafer and established Rise of the Machines (VI 5.11 A2+ 900m, 750 new) up the Southwest Face, Aguja Poincenot, Fitz Roy massif, Patagonia.
Johnny Dawes - the rock climbing interview
23/12/2011 - Interviews
Johnny Dawes - the rock climbing interview
Interview with Johnny Dawes, one of the most talented and influential British climbers of all times.
Aguja Guillaumet, Patagonia
15/12/2011 - Alpinism
Aguja Guillaumet, Patagonia
The North Ridge of Aguja Guillaumet (2579m) in the Fitz Roy massif in Patagonia was first climbed in 1981 by the Argentines Eduardo Brenner and Eduardo Moschioni. Damiano Barabino, Sergio De Leo and Marcello Sanguineti repeated the route on 8 December 2011 and finished up the Amy route.
Corrado 'Korra' Pesce, from No Siesta to Cerro Torre. The interview and meeting with Rolando Garibotti
13/12/2011 - Alpinism
Corrado 'Korra' Pesce, from No Siesta to Cerro Torre. The interview and meeting with Rolando Garibotti
From the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses to Patagonia. Corrado "Korra" Pesce's alpine journey, introduced by Rolando Garibotti in this meeting and interview - from one alpinist to another - in El Chalten
Supercanaleta Fitz Roy, Patagonia
09/12/2011 - Alpinism
Supercanaleta Fitz Roy, Patagonia
Some climbs seem timeless due to their importance in the history of alpinism. One of these is certainly Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy in Patagonia. The story by Damiano Barabino, Sergio De Leo, Marcello Sanguineti.
David Lama, more multi-pitches on Loferer Alm and Tessin
02/12/2011 - Climbing
David Lama, more multi-pitches on Loferer Alm and Tessin
Austrian climber David Lama has made the first repeat of Woher Kompass (8a+, 120m) and has freed Vamos a la playa (six pitches, 8b+) above Cevio in Switzerland's Tessin.
Archon, 8b trad in Germany's Frankenjura
25/11/2011 - Climbing
Archon, 8b trad in Germany's Frankenjura
On 06/11/2011 Patrick Matros established Archon, an 8b trad route in the Frankenjura, Germany.
Baule and Bilico, Manolo's new routes and climbs
23/11/2011 - Climbing
Baule and Bilico, Manolo's new routes and climbs
Maurizio Manolo Zanolla and his new routes at two small, lost crags, Baule and Bilico high up in the Dolomites, for a climbing which is far removed from the usual perspectives.
Gojung details, Mick Fowler interview
15/11/2011 - Alpinism
Gojung details, Mick Fowler interview
An interview with British mountaineer Mick Fowler after the first ascent of Gojung (6310m) in Nepal, Himalaya together with Dave Turnbull.
Cerro Torre West Face, the 2011 Patagonia season has begun
13/11/2011 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre West Face, the 2011 Patagonia season has begun
The 2011 "andesimo" season in Patagonia has begun in earnest with a great ascent of the rarely repeated West Face of Cerro Torre at the hands of Michael Lerjen-Demjen from Zermatt and Korra Pesce from Chamonix who chose to ascend the famous Ragni route (1500m, AI5+ M4 MI6 mushroom...
Jordan Buys, first repeat of Loaded at Ilkley Quarry
10/11/2011 - Climbing
Jordan Buys, first repeat of Loaded at Ilkley Quarry
British climber Jordan Buys has made the first repeat of the gritstone route Loaded E8 7a at Ilkley Quarry, while his wife Naomi Buys made the first female ascent of Snap Decision E7 6c.
Chasin the Trane greenpoint in the Frankenjura
07/11/2011 - Climbing
Chasin the Trane greenpoint in the Frankenjura
German climber Heiko Queitsch has climbed the famous Frankenjura routes Fight Gravity (by Kurt Albert) and Chasin the Train (by John Bachar) without using the bolts but with trad gear.
Century Crack climbed all free
06/11/2011 - Climbing
Century Crack climbed all free
Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall have climbed Century Crack at Canyonlands, USA, without pre-placed gear
Necronomicon, new roof crack in Canyonlands by Jean-Pierre
03/11/2011 - Climbing
Necronomicon, new roof crack in Canyonlands by Jean-Pierre
Jean-Pierre "Peewee" Ouellet has made the first ascent of Necronomicon 5.13d/5.14a beneath the White Rim Trail in Canyonlands, USA.
Shakti, new route for Riccardo Scarian
02/11/2011 - Climbing
Shakti, new route for Riccardo Scarian
On 17/10/2011 Riccardo Scarian carried out the first free ascent of Shakti (200m, max 8b+/8c, obl. 7c/8a), the route he had established in August 2011 with various partners up the SW Face of Picco delle Aquile, Monte Coppolo, Valnuvola.

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