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Greenland, new rock climb La chute de rein

In summer 2012 a group of young Swiss climbers established La chute de rein (600m, 6c, A1 pendulum) on peak Whale Top (1303m) in Southern Greenland.

Planetmountain

December 2012

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La chute de rein (600m, 6c, A1 pendulum), Torsukatak Fjord, Greenland

Yannick Boissenot

This summer a group of Swiss climbers travelled to Greenland's remote Torsukatak fjord where they came away with the first ascent of a new route, La chute de rein up Whale Top (1303m).

The climb follows a 300m high fabulous big flake and continues up cracks and corners, encountering difficulties up to 6c and one A1 pendulum, and after the 600m high face a 250m scramble lead to the summit. While most of the climbing was protected by pegs and trad gear, some hand-drilled bolts were placed where necessary along the pitches and to back up some belays.

Technical details aside, what renders this trip interesting is that it was backed by the St Maurice-based GMA club and apart from three mountain guides, was comprised of 14 youngsters aged 14-20 who celebrated the end of their 3 year climbing preparation in the Alps - and the 10th GMA trip since 1981 - with this expedition.

Expedition Greenland 2012
Bruno Metral
Dylan Tramaux
Julie Metral
Julien Plaschy
Lindsey Darbellay
Louis Roggo
Emmanuel Pignat
Mégane Berclaz
Nicolas Gay
Robin Lenzser
Romain Guex
Simon Passak
Valentin Roduit
Valentin Dorsaz
Antoine Salina
Yannick Boissenot (camerman)
Gregory Bueche (Mountain guide)
Maxime Derivaz (Mountain guide)
Philippe Gay (Mountain guide)
Jasmine Lienert (doctor)